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  1. #41
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.

  2. #42
    rhmimac's Avatar
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    Thanks Thomas, I'm left with some TMZ rolls in the fridge which I'm going to shoot this winter as they don't hold as long as slow film. After that my D3200 stock will be filled up drastically. I got a tip to overdevelop (push?)delta3200 one stop further to have it more up on contrast. e.g. shoot EI1600, develop as EI3200.
    I'm going to test some TMX400 up to EI1600 too. It's in the family. Hopefully TMX400 stays alive after positive testing.

  3. #43

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    what a great film. Such a shame...

  4. #44

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    I have just one roll of TMZ p3200 left with expiring date of 03/2006. It has been deep frozen all the time. I wonder what would be to expect from it now. How does it hold?

    Ulrich

  5. #45

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    I had to use TMZ for a special project where I was shooting in extremely low light conditions. Personally, the only reason why I chose TMZ was the excellent reciprocity which allowed me to shoot what I wouldn't have been able to with other films. Otherwise, I would have used D3200 for its much more pleasant grain structure and tonal range.
    SoFiET
    lii.cc

  6. #46
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    T-MAX P3200 (TMZ) discontinued

    There are now a bunch of 100 foot rolls of 70mm P3200 on eBay if anyone is interested.. They guy is asking too much for my blood, but perhaps you guys are richer than I.


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  7. #47
    Harry Lime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Has anyone shot tri-x 400 at EI 3200 and pushed it to there? And compared that to the p3200 or delta 3200? I'd be interested to hear the results.


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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    I have. D3200 or TMY3200 deliver noticeably better shadow detail.

    If I'm going to push Tri-x I rate it at 1250 (sometimes 1600 max) and develop in Diafine.

  8. #48
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    T-MAX P3200 (TMZ) discontinued

    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Lime View Post
    I have. D3200 or TMY3200 deliver noticeably better shadow detail.

    If I'm going to push Tri-x I rate it at 1250 (sometimes 1600 max) and develop in Diafine.
    Thanks Harry


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  9. #49
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    I do the same. It works great in Diafine at 1250.

  10. #50
    Harry Lime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Thanks Harry


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    And may I add that Tri-X @ 1250 in Diafine looks pretty darn good, especially once you run a few rolls through it and it ripens a little.

    Also Tmax TMY-2 400 looks really good at 1250-1600 in Diafine. TMY-2 has that straight toe, which may give you a little more shadow detail, while the 2-bath action will keep the linear shoulder from frying the highlights. Or at least that is my theory.

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