Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,914   Posts: 1,584,710   Online: 789
      
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    tcartpilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Philomath,OR
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    8

    Fuji Acros in FA-1027

    I am looking for anyone that is using Photographers Formulary FA-1027 developer with Fuji Acros in 35mm or 120.

    Would like to have a starting point for development times. I tried contacting Photographers Formulary and they directed my to the Digital Truth website but they don't list this combination. Their other suggestion led me here!

    Any help greatly appreciated.

    Eric
    Philomath,OR

  2. #2
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    14,560
    Images
    300
    Quote Originally Posted by tcartpilot View Post
    I am looking for anyone that is using Photographers Formulary FA-1027 developer with Fuji Acros in 35mm or 120.

    Would like to have a starting point for development times. I tried contacting Photographers Formulary and they directed my to the Digital Truth website but they don't list this combination. Their other suggestion led me here!

    Any help greatly appreciated.

    Eric
    Philomath,OR
    I think you're out of luck. FA-1027 is a very rare developer that not many use, which is why you don't see developing times anywhere with Acros.
    Either way, you should test it yourself to make sure that you get good results, so get on with it and let us know how it went!

    Shoot a roll in normal contrast lighting, and bracket exposures: EI 50, 64, 80, 100, 125, and 160. Develop for 9 minutes at 1+14 dilution. Now make a contact sheet of your negatives and look only at the shadow detail to determine what film speed is good for you. Do not look at anything else.
    Now shoot an entire roll in similar contrast lighting, but at the speed you selected the first time. Cut the roll in thirds and develop one third at a time. If 9 minutes gives you too much contrast, develop for less time. If it gives too little contrast, develop longer. Adjust until you have average negatives that make decent proof prints without any darkroom gymnastics.

    Whether you get hold of somebody else's developing times or not, this is a good thing to do, because everybody's situation is different. Shutter speeds that are not accurate, meters of varying accuracy, lighting conditions that change wildly, metering technique, water quality, developer thermometer calibration, etc etc etc, not even getting into what paper you print on and what develop you use. All these variances mean that a developing time that works for somebody else will not necessarily work for you.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #3
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,141
    Images
    298
    That advice is solid gold. =)

    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    I think you're out of luck. FA-1027 is a very rare developer that not many use, which is why you don't see developing times anywhere with Acros.
    Either way, you should test it yourself to make sure that you get good results, so get on with it and let us know how it went!

    Shoot a roll in normal contrast lighting, and bracket exposures: EI 50, 64, 80, 100, 125, and 160. Develop for 9 minutes at 1+14 dilution. Now make a contact sheet of your negatives and look only at the shadow detail to determine what film speed is good for you. Do not look at anything else.
    Now shoot an entire roll in similar contrast lighting, but at the speed you selected the first time. Cut the roll in thirds and develop one third at a time. If 9 minutes gives you too much contrast, develop for less time. If it gives too little contrast, develop longer. Adjust until you have average negatives that make decent proof prints without any darkroom gymnastics.

    Whether you get hold of somebody else's developing times or not, this is a good thing to do, because everybody's situation is different. Shutter speeds that are not accurate, meters of varying accuracy, lighting conditions that change wildly, metering technique, water quality, developer thermometer calibration, etc etc etc, not even getting into what paper you print on and what develop you use. All these variances mean that a developing time that works for somebody else will not necessarily work for you.

  4. #4
    tcartpilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Philomath,OR
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    8
    Thanks Thomas / Shawn for the quick replies!

    I shot a roll of 120 thru the old Rolleiflex this morning given the above information and guess what, it worked! Well sort of. It is a rainy day here in the pacific northwest but even so I think that 9 minutes was way short. As for ISO, I am thinking that it is gonna be hovering around the 50-64 mark. I will try again tomorrow morning with longer development and see how that works.

    Eric

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    5
    Hi all. You're in luck, I use fa-1027 for everything I do and shoot acros 100. I use it at 1:19 and develop for 11-15 mins depending on contrast/lighting etc. that being said, for me N=11.5 min at 68F

    I shoot acros 100 at ISO 50
    Hth!

    Brian



 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin