I used black draught excluder strip to get rid of leaks around my door. It's a compressible rubber-like material tht is self-adhesive on one side. You stick it to the door so it compresses against the wall or floor when the door is closed. That may work better than tape.
If you are having difficulty getting the 120 film stared on the reel try this trick...
Here is a simple trick to getting the 120 started on the reel.
It gives the stiffness and guide to get the roll started in to the flanges...
Cut a piece of the film box to be the same width as 120 film and about 2 or 3 inches long.
Before you go in the darkroom slide this piece of card along the reel tracks into the beginning of the reel but not past the little ball bearings. Now when in the darkroom take your film and slide it along the card until it is past the ball bearings and pull in a bit more then remove the card and load in the normal way. You see the card acts like a guide and makes those springy films easier to get started.
I most often reverse curl the first 1/2 inch or so of my film before loading to help with the springiness.
I still have the same bit of card I cut out of a Fuji box a couple of years ago, I only replace it if it gets lost or too banged up.
I bought one of those Modern Warfare 2 Infrared Goggles of the great auction in the sky. Not much more than a toy, but they do work. (As long as you are not playing with IR sensitive film.). Works well enough for loading film in the dark, without having to learn to do it by feel.)
Verified with family members that there is no light leakage around the eye pads of the goggles.
I second the suggestion of using a changing bag. I've used one for years, you soon get used to it, and it's really the only guarantee of total darkness outside of a custom made darkroom.
To each their own, but I find changing bags very difficult to use.
In particular, I miss being able to hear the sounds that the film and the reel make when the film is being loaded.
Not too mention the increased heat and humidity.
I have light leaks around the doors in my bathroom/darkroom. I block most of them with towels or bathmats, load the film at night and develop the film later, when it is convenient.
Folding over the tape at the end of the film helps stiffen the edge, which makes it easier to load.
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2