Concerning technical film, this stuff is also said to be amazing, but I have no personal experience with it:
You are asking for fine grain in a 20X enlargement (I assume from the square format that you are coming from 2-1/4 square negatives). Although such enlargements are usually viewed at a distance that makes the grain of something like Tri-X unnoticeable, your post suggests that such grain is undesirable to you. That leaves only the very fine grain films. Pan-F is probably the most available, and it works well in a variety of developers. Xtol would be the first that comes to mind. There are other very fine grain films available that may deserve attention, such as Adox CMS II, but they may be hard to find. They may also require special developers.
From your post, I assume you are using ink jet printing (which is a quite different thing than carbon printing). The digital process can do a great deal to hide the graininess in a print, so it might be worthwhile to try a large print with your existing film and see how it looks. The Delta films have quite fine grain if developed properly in the recommended developer.
Sounds like the easiest and most practical thing to do is to pick up Tmax-100, Delta-100, and Pan-F+, process it in XTOL or something and see if one of them meets your needs. Personally, I have not noticed much difference (or if any at all) using different developers for a given film but my experience is small.
Anything beyond these, you may run into supply problems in short order.
Otherwise, you may just have to go "bigger".... LF in your future?
Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?
If scanning is the main objective then you may also want to consider C41 films. Ilford XP2 scanned very good in my 35mm film scanner and at EI100 it is very fine grained. Scanning regular BW films in my Nikon Coolscan IV-ED gave more grain. Plus you can't use ICE on regular BW films. Don't know if this all applies to drum scanners as well.
Nice shot of Old Montreal.
Can't contribute much to your question, as I'm still working out my stock of Agfapan +Rodinal. But that's a gorgeous image!!!
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I've offered you some experience and examples on your previous thread, which you seem to have abandoned. But to be fair, they were only analog based and not hybrid.
Wow, thanks everyone for all the feeback - what a great forum ! The two images in my post are recent trials with Efke 25 and Rodinol (1:50). I quickly scanned them on an old Epson flatbed but haven't looked at them with a loop yet, but I really like the tonality - on another thread I was told either Rodinol or a Pyro with Efke 25. Will Pyro make that much of a difference ?
I'm surprised no one mentioned any other iso 25 films, how does their grain compare to 100 speed t-grain films like Delta/TMAX ?
Originally Posted by brian steinberger
I had always assumed tmax and delta were the same, I'll add it to my list of combinations And thanks !
I never had any luck with XTOL with Delta 100- my negatives were always severely overdeveloped, and I'm very careful with process temps, shutter speed calibration, dilution ratios... maybe I just had a bad batch of xtol - will give it another try.
Originally Posted by Michael R 1974
And yes - from Montreal
Hi Bill, your suggestion sounds interesting, how do I determine proper exposure ? Should I measure and expose for a different zone than 18% gray ?
Originally Posted by Bill Burk
As for 4x5, unless type 55 film becomes available again, I just don't have the patience !
Great article ! My hands are going to be full the next few weeks !!
Originally Posted by ParkerSmithPhoto
Originally Posted by bascom49
Here's another one from the series
Dying to try it. I used Techpan for large prints developed in Technidol - one of my favorites... it will be missed
Originally Posted by Slixtiesix
“The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”
Pyro will be sharp, but grainier than moderately diluted solvent developers such as XTOL, D76 etc. That's the tradeoff. It won't do anything special from a tonality perspective. Stain density can also vary from film to film so you'd have to experiment. It depends on what kind of printing you are doing.
Originally Posted by fatso
Regarding slow films in the 25ISO range, they are typically higher in contrast and/or have a shorter scale. That's the great thing about a film like TMax 100 if you like fine grain. It will be as, or near as fine grained as a conventional 25ISO film, but with a very long scale.
Regarding XTOL, it is only a high contrast developer if you develop that way. It is a general purpose solvent developer. You can get any level of contrast you want out of it. It gives good film speed and very fine grain at a variety of dilutions. Very flexible.
You're kind of all over the map here. In your original post you wanted fine grain and a long tonal scale. But you're talking about all sorts of different films, Rodinal, Pyro etc. First ask yourself what image characteristics you are really looking for, and how you will be printing. Based on that, choose a film. Then, to build on the characteristics of the film, choose the developer. Then, it requires practice to get the most out of the film/developer combination.
If the combo you just tried looked good stick with it.