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  1. #41
    Helinophoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Thanks I did see that film before actually but it's ortho, so I would need an actual dark room and a red light to develop it properly wouldn't I? And I don't have that, I have a sink and a light tight Patterson tank...
    ~Stone
    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic
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    No, you develop the film as any other black and white film.

    Ortho just means that the film isn't very sensetive to red, making reds dark in the photo (and blue skies probably goes towards white if you're not using a filter on your camera).

    I only have a toilet-room and paterson tanks, works very very well, should work just as well with the Rollei film too, nothing special is needed.
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    "Nice picture, you must have an amazing camera."
    Visit my photography blog at: http://helino-photo.blogspot.com

  2. #42
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Recommendation needed - 'best' B&W roll film/developer combo :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by Helinophoto View Post
    No, you develop the film as any other black and white film.

    Ortho just means that the film isn't very sensetive to red, making reds dark in the photo (and blue skies probably goes towards white if you're not using a filter on your camera).

    I only have a toilet-room and paterson tanks, works very very well, should work just as well with the Rollei film too, nothing special is needed.
    Right but Ortho film would be what you could use in a darkroom with a red light to get the PERFECT development and stop just at the right time, I guess I'm just a bit of a nut that if I had ortho I would feel an injustice not using it in a darkroom with safety light since its an option with ortho, so perhaps I'll shoot that when I have a full darkroom someday

    I have 50 feet of 70mm Kodak ortho in my freezer and I'm waiting for a darkroom to shoot that as well, always waiting...lol


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  3. #43
    Helinophoto's Avatar
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    Indeed, I've heard about such processing as well.

    I do think that developing the film "by eye" will prove to be much more difficult than it might seem.
    The light is dimmer, which will make it harder to judge the density, most likely forcing you to shoot a lot of ortho-film before you get the "eye" adjusted.
    - I am also unsure if you can actually develop the whole time in a red safe-light, or if you can just safely inspect it shortly during development.

    It may be that normal development in a closed tank will be just as (in)effective to home in on the perfect development for it.

    (Rollei Ortho 25 is also supposed to be pretty contrasty, so from what I read on the links, you'd need to use a compensating developer to "flatten out the curve" on it a bit).

    I actually do have a roll of Rollei Ortho 25 on thawing from the freezer right now, planning on shooting it tomorrow, as it is very foggy and non-contrasty over here this weekend, so it should be good........probably.....
    -
    "Nice picture, you must have an amazing camera."
    Visit my photography blog at: http://helino-photo.blogspot.com

  4. #44
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Recommendation needed - 'best' B&W roll film/developer combo :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by Helinophoto View Post
    Indeed, I've heard about such processing as well.

    I do think that developing the film "by eye" will prove to be much more difficult than it might seem.
    The light is dimmer, which will make it harder to judge the density, most likely forcing you to shoot a lot of ortho-film before you get the "eye" adjusted.
    - I am also unsure if you can actually develop the whole time in a red safe-light, or if you can just safely inspect it shortly during development.

    It may be that normal development in a closed tank will be just as (in)effective to home in on the perfect development for it.

    (Rollei Ortho 25 is also supposed to be pretty contrasty, so from what I read on the links, you'd need to use a compensating developer to "flatten out the curve" on it a bit).

    I actually do have a roll of Rollei Ortho 25 on thawing from the freezer right now, planning on shooting it tomorrow, as it is very foggy and non-contrasty over here this weekend, so it should be good........probably.....
    I like contrary, that's why I like slow film


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  5. #45
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    The Rollie appears to be panchromatic.

    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/pr...llei_Ortho.pdf
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  6. #46
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Recommendation needed - 'best' B&W roll film/developer combo :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    The Rollie appears to be panchromatic.

    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/pr...llei_Ortho.pdf
    Irony... Haha. (And before I meant I like contrasty... Silly auto correct).


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  7. #47
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Thanks I did see that film before actually but it's ortho, so I would need an actual dark room and a red light to develop it properly wouldn't I? And I don't have that, I have a sink and a light tight Patterson tank...


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The term you are looking for is "development by inspection".

    And that process is really only particularly useful for sheet film, because otherwise how are you going to customize development for each individual shot?

    It is still a very useful process (think of most of Karsh's iconic work), but it isn't necessary - time and temperature in a light tight tank will work just peachy.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  8. #48
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    The term you are looking for is "development by inspection".

    And that process is really only particularly useful for sheet film, because otherwise how are you going to customize development for each individual shot?

    It is still a very useful process (think of most of Karsh's iconic work), but it isn't necessary - time and temperature in a light tight tank will work just peachy.
    It's sometimes necessary...

    I shot a third of a roll of 35mm TMAX 100 under difficult conditions. It was the fastest film I had on hand when I went to shoot a scene on a stage from the audience. No meter because both my spotmeters were temporarily out of commission. Even if I guessed right, I had to shoot at 1/60th second or higher anyway.

    So I am going to develop by inspection. (I have an IR viewer). After the normal time, I'll pull the roll out and snip where concert ends and normal photography begins, then I'll fix the normal stuff and continue development on the thin stuff until I feel I have gotten everything possible.

  9. #49
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Recommendation needed - 'best' B&W roll film/developer combo :-)

    Thanks Matt and Bill

    Yea I just feel like it should be done, you can always cut 120 as it is developing and you can discern the lines, then stop some as they are ready while keeping others developing longer.

    But I was just thinking that it would just be fun to see it appear, and that I should just do it BECAUSE its ortho.

    But MOSTLY the ortho I have frozen is OLD so I don't know when to stop it, so being able to see it develop and stop it when necessary would be a great advantage.

    Thanks guys, good info all around.


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  10. #50

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    If you are going to drum scan and print digitally, why not use Portra 160? You can then apply colour filters digitally, instead of having to mount them on the lens and lose light.

    If you have to use black and white, then either Acros 100 or TMax 100 are great films with very fine grain, developed in Xtol or TMax developer. I have a buddy that shoots with the SWC, and he uses Acros developed in Caffenol. His results are really good, but I have only seen them as scans, not as 40" prints. As far as an experimental entry fee, that won't set you back much, as Acros is the most affordable 120 film, and Caffenol is very easy to make and the ingredients are mostly in your kitchen. Give it a go with three rolls or so, then decide whether it works for you or not.

    If you were going for darkroom prints, then I would have recommended TMax 100, as it is slightly easier to print with good highlights. Off-topic, I know, but I have seen fine 40" darkroom prints from 35 mm TriX developed in D76. I am not equipped to print that large, but I do print from TriX to 16", and the grain doesn't bother me in the least. It is the image that determines whether the grain is helpful or not. If you get a bit of grain at 40" with whatever film you use, it is not the end of the world, provided the image itself is really good.

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