Rodinal: For Film as well as Prints?

[DF]

Why/what is so great about this Developer? Is it for both developing film a swell as printmaking?

[eddie]

It's known primarily as a film developer, but can be used as a paper developer. In my bromoil research, I came up with at least one reference to using it for paper. I have no personal experience using it for paper, though.

[tony lockerbie]

Never used it as a paper dev, but as Eddie has said, there probably is no reason why you can't if you made the concentration much higher. Rodinal is obviously of most use as a film dev where it excels as a high acutance developer. Films developed in Rodinal have good edge sharpness at the cost of higher grain, which can become quite pronounced in higher speed films. Some people love this look and regularly use it for films like Tri-X. I personally use it for Pan-F, diluted to 1:50.
The other advantage of Rodinal is the keeping properties and economy. Dilutions up to 1:100 are possible although it is more commonly used at 1:25 or 1:50.The concentrate seems to last forever, which is another reason why I love it.

[eddie]

I just looked up the bromoil article I mentioned. It recommended 1:25, or 1:30, though the author hadn't tried it either.

[Tjack]

Lately I've been using R09 for the Adox CHS 50 speed film with good results. I typically use 500ml in a 1:100 ratio in a tank using the agitation method at 19-20 minutes. Thats only 5ml solution to develop, pretty economical and I like the results and the slower time seems to give a better result.

[Ian Grant]

It was recommended for Prints many years ago, but at higher concentrations 1:10 or 1:20 which makes it a bit uneconomic. Kodak Kodinol, Liford Certinal, M&B Azol, all had similar recommendations.

Modern Rodinal is sold slightly more concentrated so 1:15 or 1:25 might be a better starting point.

Ian

[Rhodes]

I did some experiments with rodianl has paper developer. I recently bought a speed graphic and since <I have not yet get some film, I decided to use old paper that I have around (to sell but never got to). Since the paper is not 4x5 I decided to cut the 8x10 sheets and use them is the olders.
And since I only know that the iso of paper is low, I rated at iso 3 and iso 6. Did some exposures from my window and develop with rodinal 1+10 and 1+15, 500ml of solution.
Again my experience with tray dev+paper is limited so, when I thought that the paper was done I stop and fix.
The negs were this:






and the posives after scanning and inverting and "processing" in photoshop and lighroom (lighroom can not do a posive from a negative?)

[Athiril]

I've gotten excellent prints with Rodinal, it just exhausts quite quickly is the only problem.

Just add another developing agent, such as ascorbate or HQ, and it lasts quite long.

[Ian Grant]

I've gotten excellent prints with Rodinal, it just exhausts quite quickly is the only problem.

Just add another developing agent, such as ascorbate or HQ, and it lasts quite long.

That's what was once recommended there was a warm tone developer published in the 1930's by MJ Shaw, I have put it in the Formulae section here on APUG.

Ian

[pdeeh]

the Formulae section here on APUG.

I expect I am being dim, but I can't find a Formulae section ... could someone give me a link please?