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  1. #1
    msbarnes's Avatar
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    Pushing acros 2 stops in 35mm

    I made a mistake today

    I shot acros at ISO 400 instead of ISO 100. What should I do?

    Well a 2 stop push isn't the end of the world but does anyone have any developer recommendations? I have D76 and Rodinal but I'd possibly buy another developer if it were highly recommended.

  2. #2
    rphenning's Avatar
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    If Fp4 and Acros are anything alike then you'll have no problems pushing it two stops in ilfosol 3, I have had to shoot FP4 at 640 in a tight spot one time and it came out pretty nice. I forget how long I extended my times for though. (if you care, it's the shot of the kids getting out of the water under "b/w" on my website, listed below)

  3. #3

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    I'd love to see the results of someone who tries this with Acros. Its my favorite slower film but I typically jump to Tri X for the 200-400 range of speeds. If Acros can be pushed to at least 200 and retains sufficient shadow detail I may have to reevaluate when I use Tri X.

  4. #4

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    If you have access to Diafine, you can get around 1.5 stops extra without too much loss of quality.

    If you want to stick to Rodinal, try 1+100 for 60 minutes - stand or semi-stand (i.e. reduced agitation).

    Of course, if this is an important roll, shoot another and do some dev tests.

    Let us know what you choose, and how it goes.

  5. #5
    Helinophoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Legge View Post
    I'd love to see the results of someone who tries this with Acros. Its my favorite slower film but I typically jump to Tri X for the 200-400 range of speeds. If Acros can be pushed to at least 200 and retains sufficient shadow detail I may have to reevaluate when I use Tri X.
    I use HC-110 Dilution H for 18-20 minutes or so (or B at 7-10 minutes), 200 absolutely no problem, 400 not really a problem either (a bit higher contrast off course, noise in 120 is just about non-existent).
    Attached a not very explainable example of Acros shot at EI 400. (click the thumbnail-film-strip picture a few times to get to the 3000*3000 pixel browser view)
    These are scans, black point adjusted to where I normally place them when making proof-prints in the dark-room, where I see a hint of the base..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Acros100_at_400_HC-110_B_10m a.jpg   Acros100_at_400_HC-110_B_10m b.png  
    Last edited by Helinophoto; 11-25-2012 at 01:33 PM. Click to view previous post history.
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  6. #6
    Klainmeister's Avatar
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    Interesting thread. Having wept at the loss of Neopan 400, shooting Acros at 400 would help get me back into handholding 120 shots. Anyone tried with Pyrocat?
    K.S. Klain

  7. #7
    Aron's Avatar
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    When posting examples I think it makes sense to describe the rest of the system, not just the film and developer.

    Are these neg scans or scans from prints? It's incredible how much more shadow detail a scanner (and its software) can pick up, compared to (at least my style of) traditional printing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Helinophoto View Post
    I use HC-110 Dilution H for 18-20 minutes or so (or B at 7-10 minutes), 200 absolutely no problem, 400 not really a problem either (a bit higher contrast off course, noise in 120 is just about non-existent).
    Attached a not very explainable example of Acros shot at EI 400. (click the thumbnail-film-strip picture a few times to get to the 3000*3000 pixel browser view)

  8. #8
    Klainmeister's Avatar
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    That's kinda funny, I find the opposite true wherein my scanner pics up barely anything that a print can reveal.
    K.S. Klain

  9. #9
    Helinophoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aron View Post
    When posting examples I think it makes sense to describe the rest of the system, not just the film and developer.

    Are these neg scans or scans from prints? It's incredible how much more shadow detail a scanner (and its software) can pick up, compared to (at least my style of) traditional printing.
    True.

    And indeed this are neg scans. The black point is placed as close as possible to where I normally have them on a proof-sheet print from the darkroom. (where you start seeing a hint of the clear film base). I could easily pick out more shadow detail from the scans, but I let the base-fog decide, to get a more realistic view of the whole proof-sheet.

    It's always hard to judge scans, I know (that's why I mentioned that this was not a very explainable example, but an example none the less).

    The negs are quite dense after HC-110 H for 20 minutes, so I'll probably go for around 17-18 minutes instead if I decide to push again.
    Last edited by Helinophoto; 11-25-2012 at 01:30 PM. Click to view previous post history.
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  10. #10

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    Acros in UFG 1:0 goes to 400 easy. Nice look too, as close as I've ever found to Neopan 1600, but with finer grain.

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