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  1. #21
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    TMax and Delta need more time in Hypo. Some say 50%, I have sometimes had to double the time even with fresh Hypo.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #22
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Slightly pink hue?

    Ralph says its good, sly says re-fix...

    Also all of my images are 120 cut not 35mm so can't use paper clips...


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  3. #23
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Slightly pink hue?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    TMax and Delta need more time in Hypo. Some say 50%, I have sometimes had to double the time even with fresh Hypo.
    Dumb question, is this the same as hypo?




    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  4. #24
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Dumb question, is this the same as hypo?




    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    No, the wetting agent helps the water flow off the film without leaving streaks.

    Sold by FreeStyle, one of APUG's sponsors http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_sea...hypo&rfnc=303&
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  5. #25

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    [QUOTE=Sirius Glass;1428387]TMax and Delta need more time in Hypo. /QUOTE]

    This is the general view about TMax but I had never heard this being applicable to Delta. Ilford says nothing to indicate a 50% increase in fixer time and I have never noticed any issues with Delta film using the same times as I use for "old tech" film such as HP5+

    pentaxuser

  6. #26
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    the two-bath fixing method 'fixes' the issue entirely
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  7. #27

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    Ilford recommends 2-5 minutes in fresh Rapid Fix (Ammonium Thiosulfate) at 1+4. I always use fresh fixer and have never needed longer than Ilford's 5 minutes with any film, including TMax and Delta. Shorter times could probably be used for non-tabular films. Best to do a clearing test with your particular film and then fix for 2-3 times the clearing time.

    Some reminders for those less experienced:

    1. Mix the working solution thoroughly. People sometimes neglect good mixing when dealing with liquid concentrates. There is an Ilford tip sheet which warns that the liquid Rapid Fix concentrate needs to be thoroughly stirred into the water to mix properly.

    2. Proper agitation. I would recommend agitating for at least 10 seconds per 30 seconds throughout the fixing time.

    Ralph and Sly are both right. It depends on the various dyes in the film, and the film base itself may have a slight tint. For example after fixing and a complete/thorough wash TMax 100 is virtually colourless, while some Ilford films such as Delta 100 (in 35mm at least) will have a very slight bluish cast.

  8. #28
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Slightly pink hue?

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
    Ilford recommends 2-5 minutes in fresh Rapid Fix (Ammonium Thiosulfate) at 1+4. I always use fresh fixer and have never needed longer than Ilford's 5 minutes with any film, including TMax and Delta. Shorter times could probably be used for non-tabular films. Best to do a clearing test with your particular film and then fix for 2-3 times the clearing time.

    Some reminders for those less experienced:

    1. Mix the working solution thoroughly. People sometimes neglect good mixing when dealing with liquid concentrates. There is an Ilford tip sheet which warns that the liquid Rapid Fix concentrate needs to be thoroughly stirred into the water to mix properly.

    2. Proper agitation. I would recommend agitating for at least 10 seconds per 30 seconds throughout the fixing time.

    Ralph and Sly are both right. It depends on the various dyes in the film, and the film base itself may have a slight tint. For example after fixing and a complete/thorough wash TMax 100 is virtually colourless, while some Ilford films such as Delta 100 (in 35mm at least) will have a very slight bluish cast.
    I always fix 5 minutes exactly, and it's strange because its only SOME of my tri-x... I do re-use my fixer a lot though,so I'll just fix longer in the future, the shots aren't SUPER important, just a bit so I'll take my chances and let it be... For now..


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  9. #29
    MattKing's Avatar
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    T-Max (or the Delta films) for 5 minutes in used Rapid Fix may not be enough. The

    Here is a modified procedure for two bath fixing.

    Do a clip test with fresh fix - record the time.

    Mix up enough fresh, working strength film fix to do two batches of the film at the same time. Label one fix 1, and the other fix 2.

    Use the fixer in fix 1 with your film, and do a clip test at the same time. When the clip has cleared, record the time, and pour back the fixer into fix 1.

    Now use the fixer in fix 2 with your film for the same length of time.

    You will have well fixed film.

    The clearing time will get gradually longer. When it has doubled, discard both batches of the fix in an appropriate manner. Mix anew.

    Next, check whether you still have a pink hue. You might, because while fully fixing gets rid of lots of the remaining dyes, it might not have got rid of all of them, because that really isn't the main job of fixer, but instead a fortunate additional benefit.

    The pink hue isn't proof that the film isn't properly fixed, but it is a clue that it might not be properly fixed, so if you haven't used a clip test or, even better, a retained silver test, then it would be best to assume the worst.

    If you still have some pink hue, Hypo Clearing Agent (not "Hypo"!) or another competing wash aid also helps with that. Again, not the main purpose, but another fortunate additional benefit.

    The pink hue is harmless. Incomplete fixing is hazardous.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  10. #30
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Slightly pink hue?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    No, the wetting agent helps the water flow off the film without leaving streaks.

    Sold by FreeStyle, one of APUG's sponsors http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_sea...hypo&rfnc=303&
    The link you sent me to shows fixer, is hypo the same as fixer?


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

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