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  1. #11
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave in Kansas View Post
    Does T-Max 100 work well for reverse processing? As I recall, it doesn't have a very clear base.

    Dave
    It does. Check out the DR5 web site. http://www.dr5.com/blackandwhiteslide/tmx.html
    (For the record I have no affiliation with the web site or its owner).

    TMX film base not clear? The negs I have from that film are clear as glass, whether 4x5, 35mm, or 120.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  2. #12

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    Thanks Thomas. I have used DR5 a number of times, but never with T-Max 100. I really haven't shot that much of it but was thinking it didn't have a real clear base. I did process a roll of T-Max 400 a couple of nights ago in XTOL and thought its base was rather opaque. I figured T-Max 100 would be similar.

    Dave

  3. #13
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave in Kansas View Post
    Thanks Thomas. I have used DR5 a number of times, but never with T-Max 100. I really haven't shot that much of it but was thinking it didn't have a real clear base. I did process a roll of T-Max 400 a couple of nights ago in XTOL and thought its base was rather opaque. I figured T-Max 100 would be similar.

    Dave
    I think you might have a processing problem. TMY-2 comes out clear as glass for me too, and I use Xtol also. Perhaps your fixer is nearing exhaustion? Anyway, don't mean to derail the thread... Carry on!
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  4. #14

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    Thanks again, Thomas. I appreciate your comments on T-Max films. I don't shoot much T-Max, but the roll the other night was shot at ISO 200 under bright rather high contrast conditions. My Xtol was 4 months old, stored in a wine bladder and mixed 1:2 and developed for 9 1/2 minutes. The fixer was Kodak Rapid Fixer and the clear test was around 2 1/2 minutes (still a bit opaque at that time, but both halves of test strip were equal). My total fix time was about 7 minutes. Results were not very clear, in my opinion.

    Dave

  5. #15
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave in Kansas View Post
    I did process a roll of T-Max 400 a couple of nights ago in XTOL and thought its base was rather opaque. I figured T-Max 100 would be similar.
    Not enough time in the hypo. The film was not clear of excess silver.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  6. #16

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    Did Kodak Once Produce a Black & White Slide Film?

    TMax, Deltas and Acros, being tabular grain films, are really avid for fixer. I choose to keep the negatives at rapid fixer for 3 times the tip test Using a T-grain tip, and count these films twice in my fixer record, because them exaust the fixer faster than regular grain films.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  7. #17

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    I feel embarrassed and need to retract most of what I said above regarding T-Max 100 and 400 films. I just rechecked my TMY negatives and they do indeed have a mostly clear base with only a very slight tint. Furthermore, I went back and found some of my TMX negatives and the base is quite clear.

    Most likely I was thinking of the my test strip used to test my fixer that was in the fixer only long enough to determine a fix time. I guess that is what I get for trying to post something at work in a hurry when what I need to refer to is at home.

    Perhaps I should shoot more T-Max film and get a better feel for it.

    Dave

  8. #18
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave in Kansas View Post
    I feel embarrassed and need to retract most of what I said above regarding T-Max 100 and 400 films. I just rechecked my TMY negatives and they do indeed have a mostly clear base with only a very slight tint. Furthermore, I went back and found some of my TMX negatives and the base is quite clear.

    Most likely I was thinking of the my test strip used to test my fixer that was in the fixer only long enough to determine a fix time. I guess that is what I get for trying to post something at work in a hurry when what I need to refer to is at home.

    Perhaps I should shoot more T-Max film and get a better feel for it.

    Dave
    It doesn't matter. The important thing is that they are great films, both of them, but while a bit thirsty in the fixer department, rapidly depleting fixer capacity, they are wonderful films for reversal processing, as are almost any other Kodak film available or obsolete.
    Now back to the experts regarding reversal processing...
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  9. #19
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    In the late 1970s I used a 35mm Kodak direct positive B&W film marketed for scientific use, and not generally available in stores. As I recall, it was red until developed, and very slow, maybe ISO 3. It was developed in Dektol print developer. Another way to make B&W positives is to copy negatives with a high contrast film like the late Kodak Tech Pan.

  10. #20
    Stephen Frizza's Avatar
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    it was also available in 4x5 and is still available in 35mm
    "Its my profession to hijack time" ~ Stephen Frizza.

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