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  1. #11

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    File under embarassing...

    Quote Originally Posted by garryl
    I'm a little confused. How could "exhausted stop" cause a film to come out "blank". Or were you referring to the developer.
    The only time I had film come out blank with proper exposure was when I "developed" it in the fixer before fixing...those darn Ilford bottles all look the same.

  2. #12

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    I've used Exactol Lux a fair bit and some thoughts:

    You do not really need to use an alkali stop, water is fine (as is an acid stop). I rinsed with several changes of water if an alkali fix was used after acid stop. In the end, I found that using water stop then acid fix was fine and I stopped using the 'dev back in after fix' as it made little difference to how the image printed. Some have suggested that this simply increases general stain rather than image stain, which just hoiks up printing time. Now with pyrocat HD (essentially the same and so cheap it is effectively free), I just presoak, develop, acid stop, acid fix, wash, hey presto great negs with pretty well no B+F with clear based films (Tmax/Acros etc)!

    With Ilford films (FP4 and delta100) I have had really erratic base clearance. I have had some negs clear very well very quickly and others that are pigs and never go clear. I think this may be a film issue, rather than the dev. On this subject, I may have had long clearance times with Tmax and Acros, but it has always cleared perfectly.


    If you want fine grain and superb sharpness for a T grain film, try Acros. Incredible in Exactol Lux. Even Dixactol Ultra struggles to produce grain, but somehow produces really good edge effects for such a smoothie (even on 5x4 acros the difference between these devs and HC110 in terms of sharpness is very clear)

    Good luck!

    Tom

  3. #13
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    Exactol Lux is brilliant. Personally, I never bothered with the alkaline stop. I used a very weak normal (acid) stop and then fixed in Hypam. A 3 minute resoak in the used developer imparts a beautiful stain. Usually a 30 minute wash sufficed. BLIGHTY

  4. #14

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    Supposing this purple tint is an anti halo layer, 2 min in a hypo clear will eliminate it.
    sergio caetano

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by garryl
    I'm a little confused. How could "exhausted stop" cause a film to come out "blank". Or were you referring to the developer.

    Since you've tried different fixers at differing fix times,I won't suggest 2 bath
    technique( which is my personal favorite). I'd try the suggested alkaline after-bath or washing aid as a next investigation step.

    Some threads have suggested that the "purple effect" might have to do with the Ph of the developer. Low Ph developers remove dye less efficiently than Higher Ph developers( ID-11 vs Rodinal).
    The film come out almost clear since the stop didn't stop the developer.

    I'm going to resort to water as stop next as some have suggested. Thanks for the advice guys!

  6. #16
    Ole
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_liddell
    The film come out almost clear since the stop didn't stop the developer.
    No. That would at most give a very slight increase in contrast. There is no way the film would come out clear.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  7. #17

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    But it's not a "stop" it's a "go". I suspect he is working
    with one of B. Thorton's TWO-BATH or A-B developers
    and the "go" bath "stoped". Where the word stop
    came from is anybodies' guess. Dan

  8. #18
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    as I posted on another list, the ultimate question__

    Why an alkaline stop bath? Sinc most developers use alkalies as accelerator, isn't this the photo equivalent of throwing gasoline on a dying fire?
    "Just because nobody complains doesn't mean all parachutes are perfect."

  9. #19

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    It's not a stop it's a go. Read my post. Dan

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by fschifano
    I think plain water will do.
    It'll do quite nicely. I never use a stop bath with film. If you don't want to follow Pat's method of adding the fixer to the developer (I don't), just give your film a quick (30 sec. or so) rinse in plain water before adding the fixer.

    What I have found helpful is to follow the fix with a minute in a washing aid such as Perma Wash before final washing. This seems to help in getting the remaining purple color out.

    From time to time, however, some of the purple remains, and no amount of washing or whatever removes it. I've concluded that this represents a difference in different batches of film at the manufacturing stage. I've also discovered that a bit of residual color makes no difference at all in printing.

    Larry

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