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  1. #1

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    Alklai-STOP problems

    I've recently switched developer from perceptol to Exactol Lux. The developer requires an alkali stop.

    I've been using Alklai-STOP from monochromephotography.com and I'm getting purple negs wheather I use alkali fix or acid. Even after washing for 1.5hrs there is still a slight purple tint, I thought using alkaline chems shortened the wash time! I've tried presoaking and without. Same problem with both 120 and 35mm with FP4+.

    The documentation with the stop says 1L should be good for 60 films. I mixed 500ml and it lasted just 4 films.

    This is the only alkaline stop I can find in the UK. Are there alternatives? Anyone use it successfully?

  2. #2

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    I think plain water will do.

  3. #3
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Have you tried a hypo clearing agent or Permawash after the fix?
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #4
    gainer's Avatar
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    I haven't had any recent problems with purple TMY or TMX since I used TF4 on them. I generally add the fixer concentrate to the developer at end of development, about 1 oz. per 8 ounces. If necessary, I pour out enough developer to accommodate the fixer. IOW, I skip the stop bath.

    I expect to get alot of theories about what will happen. None of those things have happened yet.
    Gadget Gainer

  5. #5
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I've tried that since you first posted it, and it worked fine! I was probably using PMK or ABC pyro, and the fixer concentrate was Zonal Pro rapid fixer.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  6. #6
    garryl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_liddell
    The documentation with the stop says 1L should be good for 60 films. I mixed 500ml and it lasted just 4 films.
    how did you determine this?

    This is the only "commerically produced" product I know of. There are several
    formulas for mix-your-own .

    I assume that this wasn't a problem when you were using Perceptol?
    Was your pre-soak plain water? Was your fixing 1 or 2 bath. Has this purple happened with any other films?
    "Just because nobody complains doesn't mean all parachutes are perfect."

  7. #7
    garryl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gainer
    I haven't had any recent problems with purple TMY or TMX since I used TF4 on them. I generally add the fixer concentrate to the developer at end of development, about 1 oz. per 8 ounces. If necessary, I pour out enough developer to accommodate the fixer. IOW, I skip the stop bath.

    I expect to get alot of theories about what will happen. None of those things have happened yet.
    This was the technique that Edwal used for using FG-7 as a mono-bath.
    "Just because nobody complains doesn't mean all parachutes are perfect."

  8. #8
    gainer's Avatar
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    Now you have found me out. I used that technique with FG-7 many years ago.
    Gadget Gainer

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by garryl
    how did you determine this?

    This is the only "commerically produced" product I know of. There are several
    formulas for mix-your-own .

    I assume that this wasn't a problem when you were using Perceptol?
    Was your pre-soak plain water? Was your fixing 1 or 2 bath. Has this purple happened with any other films?
    Presoak was in distilled water since the water in my area is terrible. I determined that it was exhausted when I developed a film that came out almost blank, then did a film immediatly after from teh same shoot with newly mixed stop which was fine (apart from the purple). I've tried fixing (1 bath) with agfa agefix and also 'Retro Original Alkaline Fixer' from retro photographic using various times. Haven't tried a film other than hp5+ or fp4+ with it.

    Had no problems with perceptol but I was using acid stop and fix.

  10. #10
    garryl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_liddell
    I determined that it was exhausted when I developed a film that came out almost blank, then did a film immediatly after from teh same shoot with newly mixed stop which was fine (apart from the purple).
    I'm a little confused. How could "exhausted stop" cause a film to come out "blank". Or were you referring to the developer.

    Since you've tried different fixers at differing fix times,I won't suggest 2 bath
    technique( which is my personal favorite). I'd try the suggested alkaline after-bath or washing aid as a next investigation step.

    Some threads have suggested that the "purple effect" might have to do with the Ph of the developer. Low Ph developers remove dye less efficiently than Higher Ph developers( ID-11 vs Rodinal).
    "Just because nobody complains doesn't mean all parachutes are perfect."

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