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  1. #1

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    Ilfotec HC vs DD-X for Kodak P3200?

    Going to shoot T-Max P3200 for a live performance once more time. I used to develop it in Ilfotec HC. Would DD-X be a much better choice for overall speed and image quality? I hesitate to experiment with a different developer than what I'm used to...but if the two react similarly as far as developing times, I could give DD-X a shot if it's better for this film. I need to buy some new developer anyway, I think...

  2. #2
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Ilfotec HC vs DD-X for Kodak P3200?

    Well ilford specifically states that DD-X is made for T- Grain films ESPECIALLY for use with D3200 (deltas 3200 film) so I'm sure it would be a good match. I've only used Ilfsol 3 with 3200 but that came out great too, however I just picked up a bottle of DD-X, but it does state on the bottle that its only good for 3 months with a half filled open bottle so I would buy the 1 liter instead of the 5 liter that I bought, had I realized I would have not bought the larger one. Unless you shoot a lot more film than I do in 3 months.


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  3. #3
    Colin Corneau's Avatar
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    What Mr. Stone says, above...pretty much exactly my points.

    DD-X is a great speed developer, gives terrific grain and shadow detail. It's actually a terrific developer, and I'm a Rodinal guy!
    "Never criticize someone until you've walked a mile in their shoes. That way, you're a mile away and you've got their shoes."

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  4. #4
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    DD-X is great with Delta 3200 and Delta 400 and Fp4 and Hp5, my favorite developer actually.

    I have felt the itch to try HC or HC110 but haven't yet so can't give you a comparison.


    Stone, you can use marbles to top up the bottle or use a protective gas of some sort to extend its life considerably.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

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  5. #5
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Ilfotec HC vs DD-X for Kodak P3200?

    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    DD-X is great with Delta 3200 and Delta 400 and Fp4 and Hp5, my favorite developer actually.

    I have felt the itch to try HC or HC110 but haven't yet so can't give you a comparison.


    Stone, you can use marbles to top up the bottle or use a protective gas of some sort to extend its life considerably.
    I heard marbles were dangerous as they often crack and the leave glass shards that scratch the film?


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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  6. #6

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    Simply split your large amount of developer into smaller bottles. If you can't find specialised chemistry bottles you can try the thin-but-strong ones which are used for fizzy drinks. If you do end up with this option, make sure they are very clearly labelled and stored safely with photographic products, not food related ones.

  7. #7
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    I heard marbles were dangerous as they often crack and the leave glass shards that scratch the film?


    ~Stone

    The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1st I've heard of that. Breaking the marbles is a possibility I guess, but dropping them into a viscous liquid from a very low altitude would appear to me be a very hard way to do that.

    My experience with marbles as a kid would suggest that somewhat rougher treatment might be required.

    Getting the oxygen out of the bottle is the goal.

    Personally I just use a little propane, easy but flammable, the volume is really low though, starting my gas stove burners wastes more and provides IMO a bigger risk. Others use nitrogen and its inert but it is tougher to get. There are also accordion style bottles.

    None of these solutions are perfect but each markedly improves the storage life.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  8. #8
    MarkL's Avatar
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    Dust-off is inert, isn't it?

  9. #9
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkL View Post
    Dust-off is inert, isn't it?
    I don't know.

    I've used it and seemed to protect the developer but when I came back to to bottles for the next session they were normally sucking themselves inward. Why I don't know, that does not seem to happen with propane.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  10. #10

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    So DD-X has a shorter concentrate shelf life than HC?

    Now, what about developing times? I hate to play with something new all of a sudden and screw it up. With HC, I always have good results developing for one EI higher than the rated EI. (I guess the push EI values are not really based on middle gray tones, but something midway between white and middle gray.) For example, if I shoot the film at 3200, I'm developing using the EI 6400 time. Always 1 EI higher in development than rated speed. If I get some DD-X and just follow this rule, would I get good results? I was hoping the negs might be similar in look to those developed with Ilfotec HC, but less contrasty/blocked-up and a bit less grainy...and thus easier to scan. (I get a lot of noise/grain and have trouble getting even a hint of shadow detail when scanning P3200 developed in Ilford HC at EI 6400.)

    Does DD-X with P3200 at EI values from 1600 to 12,800 sound like a safe experiment for images that I care about considering my experience with Ilfotec HC? If it's no trouble making the conversion to DD-X from HC, and the resulting images are a half a stop better, I'd consider it a successful outcome and small risk.

    Finally, what is the dilution when using DD-X? For HC, it's 1+31. And what are the development times for Kodak P3200 in DD-X like?

    Thanks again.
    Last edited by B&Wpositive; 12-09-2012 at 12:33 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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