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  1. #11

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    I find sepia yellows the paper base as well as turning tonality 'brown' (which is why I don't use it much). You're not just seeing that are you?

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndreasT View Post
    Thanks all for the replies. The thing is I use Fixer from Moersch and he told me if it fresh the picture is fixed within 30 sec. at 1+5. Using two baths I fix 1 min in each. I am using sepia direct toner so no bleaching is taking place.
    Since there is Ammonium Thiosulfate in Selenium wouldn't that actually fix the print somewhat.
    I am going to test my fixer tomorrow to see if there is a problem there. Personally I do believe I stuffed up with the washing somewhere, it has to happen sometime. This is my first and hopefully my last.
    Thanks for replying; I've experienced a background yellowing on prints after selenium/sepia toning myself - I blamed the fixer. I can't comment on the Moersch fixer as I've never used it.

    You can test your fixer by dropping a small piece of undeveloped black and white film, from the leader of a 35mm cassette for instance, into the fixer and timing how long it takes to clear; then double that time for a minimum fixing time (for film at least).

    I'm not sure whether the thiosulfate in selenium toner is strong enough to fix prints, but it can erode fine details if residual toner isn't removed before bleaching (been there... I'm not sure how it might affect direct toning though).

    Sepia toning before selenium might help you find out where your problem is occurring, and at least eliminate or confirm the selenium toner as the source of the problem.

    Cheers,
    kevs
    Last edited by kevs; 12-12-2012 at 02:32 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    testing...

  3. #13
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    I did a test today checking my fixer exposing paper to light then putting it into the fixer in 5 sec steps, washed, then put it into toner to see the step where no more colour change is to determine half the fixing time. The fixer according to this seems fine.
    My consideration is that you can take sodium sulfite after the toning to stop the toning to prevent possible staining in the wash. I have never done this but may do so.

  4. #14

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    Okay, well I can't think of anything else to suggest, so hopefully someone else can chime in here. There's another thread that touches on this subject that might interest you; it mentions the way Viradon Neu polysulphide toner works. Hopefully it will be useful to you. http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/1...g-puzzled.html

    Good luck,
    kevs
    testing...

  5. #15
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    Thanks kevs I have been reading and posting there.

  6. #16

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    Sistan is a image stabilizer that does not change the colour of the silver image. It is important not to wash the print after the Sistan treatment. It is not necessary to use Sistan after a selenium toning.

  7. #17
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    Well if Sistan isn't wiped off properly it may leave yellow brown staining. Let some of it dry in a tray and you should get yellow marks as far as I know. I only tone my prints lightly so to make sure they are Archival I use Sistan.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndreasT View Post
    Well if Sistan isn't wiped off properly it may leave yellow brown staining. Let some of it dry in a tray and you should get yellow marks as far as I know. I only tone my prints lightly so to make sure they are Archival I use Sistan.
    Not sure if you're aware, but Sistan isn't needed if you're using polysulphide toner; it gives archival benefits regardless of depth of colour change. See http://www.silverprint.co.uk/plus_ar...ID=11&TextID=6 for an interesting piece from Silverprint.

    Cheers,
    kevs
    testing...

  9. #19
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    They want to sell the toner. No seriously nice read. Yes I know polysulphide is supposed to be archivally better than selen. Still I prefer to use Sistan since I am sure it will not harm (maybe it does, I will tell you in a hundred years) and I use it instead of a wetting agend which I would otherwise use.

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