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  1. #1

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    EFKE KB 100 @ EI400 and push w. XTOL - Dev times?

    Hello guys,

    After a quick inventory check before the upcoming holidays I found that my Fomapan 400 stash is almost empty (bulk for only 3-4 rolls left) and there's no time to get some more of it in my direction. Since I am not at all interested in going to the local dealer and pay 6 eur a roll for kodak or ilford 400 iso film I decided to see what in the stash I have that has the possibility to underexpose and push in a nifty manner.

    Looking at this one (the first pic in the first post)
    http://forum.manualfocus.org/viewtopic.php?id=2291

    I am convinced that the five left over rolls of Efke Kb100 I have will probably do very well, and certainly compared to the Rollei Retro 80s and Apx-100 that I have..


    Anyone has a clue about dev times for Efke KB100 @ EI400 and XTOL?

    Other alternatives of developers that I have in stash are:

    HC-110
    TMAX
    D67
    Rodinal
    Rodinal Special / Studional
    Fomadon LQN


    And I don't want replies like "Why are you going to push Efke KB100 bla bla bla etc.". Please - Thanks!!





    Cheers,
    Felinik
    http://street-photos.net/ | http://felinik.com/ | http://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik

    "The one with the most stuff when he dies wins"

  2. #2
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Bring the brightest lens of the bunch; that's step number one.

    You can shoot any ISO 100 film at 400 if you want, and you can do things like diluting Rodinal to 1+100 and slowing down agitation to something like 10s every five minutes, or even do standing development, but in snowy Sweden you might end up with really dull highlights if you do.
    My advice would be to get a speed enhancing developer to process your film, after you return to your darkroom. Kodak Xtol, for example, which works really well for bringing out shadow detail. Diluted to something like 1+3 you also get very long developing times, which helps shadow detail.
    If I were you I would be testing Efke 100 or APX 100 at 400, in similar lighting to what you expect to shoot in in Sweden, and then cut that roll in thirds and experiment with developing time. Your D76 might work really well for push processing too, if you dilute it enough.

    Hopefully contrast will be fairly low in Sweden, which will help you, and something like EI 200 to 400 might be the correct exposure based on the lighting. If you'll be shooting in high contrast lighting, it might be really difficult to bring back some shadow detail.

    Good luck!
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #3

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    Thanks Thomas! (Busy bee you too lately?)

    So the key seems to be, long dev times, logical. Hmm expected lights in Sweden, well, I am hoping for full sun and a nice white covered landscape, sun is up between 8.30 and 15.30 during the days, though I suspect in reality it will turn out being gray skies, windy and not a lot more than that...

    Yeah, I am hoping that I can shoot some Rollei Retro 80s @ EI160, I've done that before and it turns out just great in the end, and if so, then Efke KB100 @ EI200 will be an option too.

    Is there any kind of general rule for dev times increase upon pushing?





    Cheers,
    Felinik
    http://street-photos.net/ | http://felinik.com/ | http://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik

    "The one with the most stuff when he dies wins"

  4. #4
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Felinik View Post
    Is there any kind of general rule for dev times increase upon pushing?
    Well, it's all about what you want to do with the resulting negatives, really.

    Example: If you really liked Kodak Tri-X 320, you can shoot Kodak TMax 100 @ 400, and then push develop in Xtol 1+1, agitating every minute, and get a very similar tonality. Or TMax 400 @ 1250-1600 and do the same thing. It's very difficult to tell prints from one or the other apart.

    This is why you need to test. Shoot a roll at 200, and cut in thirds. Process in D76 1+1 and adjust until your prints look like what you want them to look. When you push process, the thing you really have to look out for is backlit subjects, especially portraits. Details in dark shadow of someone's face easily gets lost in deep shadow, important details like eyes.

    If you have the ability to bring two cameras, use the Foma 400 for difficult lighting, and use the ISO 100 film for well lit occasions. Again, bring the largest aperture lens you have. In the winter I almost always employ a tripod, simply because there aren't that many moving subjects around, and then it doesn't matter if I shoot ISO 100 or 400. But traveling with a tripod is a PITA sometimes. I recommend Feisol carbon fiber models that are highly compact for traveling.

    Finally, what's stopping you from ordering some 400-speed film to be delivered to Sweden?

    - Thomas
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  5. #5

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    Interesting, and yes, I do have two cameras with me anyway, always one for spare so I guess I could just set it up for use and run two speeds, didn't think about that!

    Hmm good idea, get it delivered to Sweden, however, now I got hooked on this project, underexpose and push, and I'm already excited about "how could I find similar light conditions here in town next weekend"... So maybe I just go on with this, bring whatever Foma I have left, a bunch of Rollei Retro 80s to shoot at 160 in the second camera, and my 5 Efke rolls, and then I do have 5 rolls of portra 400 and 5 portra 800 that I'm thinking about using (not all of them) for some nice color winter pictures (maybe I need to bring a third camera then... hehehe!).

    The portra I'm even thinking about shooting up to 1600 and get pushed in dev in order to take some evening/indoor shots in color too...


    http://street-photos.net/ | http://felinik.com/ | http://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik

    "The one with the most stuff when he dies wins"



 

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