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  1. #1

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    Candlelight Church Service--what film and developer?

    Candlelight Church Service--what film and developer?
    I want to photograph the end of our Christmas eve service from the balcony at church during the singing of Silent Night. The lights will be out and everyone will be holding candles. I am going to use my Mamiya 7 with 65mm lens as the leaf shutter is nearly silent and manual winding very quiet. Not enough room for a tripod, so I will be using a monopod. I have the following films available: Tri-X, TMax 400, Arista EDU Ultra 400, Ilford XP-2, Ilford HP-5+, and Ilford Delta 3200.

    My developers on hand from a recent Freestyle order include Arista Premium (F76+); rodinal; tmax developer; and HC-110. I'm fairly new to developing but have had good results with Arista Premium developer and rodinal. Have not used the others yet.

    I am leaning toward Tri-X or HP5+ pushed to 800-1600 in the Arista Premium developer; or Ilford Delta 3200 @ 1600 in TMax developer.

    I would like to print at 11x14 or 16x20.

    Thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Kent

  2. #2

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    My favorite would be the Ilford 3200. I expose it for 3200 and process it in Arista liquid developer, 1:7, for 14 minutes. Works great.

  3. #3

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    Mamiya 7 ISO control only goes up to 1600. Process for more than 14 minutes, or would this matter much?

    Kent

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by BardParker View Post
    Mamiya 7 ISO control only goes up to 1600. Process for more than 14 minutes, or would this matter much?

    Kent
    heykent

    overexpose it 1 stop over manually ...
    yep the 14mins matters, have fun
    john
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
    artwork often times sold for charity
    PM me for details

  5. #5
    andrew.roos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    heykent

    overexpose it 1 stop over manually ...
    yep the 14mins matters, have fun
    john
    If the camera is set for 1600 ISO and you want to shoot at 3200 ISO using the camera's metering then you need to expose for one stop less than indicated (i.e. dial in -1 EV exposure compensation).

    I think it's going to be a difficult metering situation since the bright candle flames will probably cause an averaging meter to indicate too short an exposure. If possible, use a spot meter aimed at a candle-lit face, but excluding any actual candles. The ultimate exposure computer (http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm) gives LV 4 for candle-lit closeups - this would be e.g. f/8 1/8 second at ISO 3200. If necessary you could use this as a starting point and bracket a couple of stops either side of this in 1-stop steps.

    Andrew
    Last edited by andrew.roos; 12-23-2012 at 11:28 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #6
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Andrews suggestion of using the Ultimate Exposure calculator is a good one.

    Any of the films listed would do fine in MF.

    Of the films you have listed I'd go with T-Max 400 shot at 800 and developed normally.

    The reason is that you are shooting a scene with a wide angle lens from a distance that will render the details; candles, faces... relatively small. In that type of situation I would personally want grain minimized so that the small details in the subject matter don't have to compete with the grain.

    Your T-Max developer should give you the best shadow detail, I'd start there. You can make T-Max's tonality look more like Tri-X's by using HC-110 and/or messing with your agitation, if you were so inclined, but that will require some practice. To that end you might consider shooting 3-rolls and developing one in T-Max normal, one in HC-110 normal, and saving the third as a spare adjusting development/developer choice as needed after you've done test prints from the first two rolls.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  7. #7
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Tri-X and HP5 are both slower than Delta3200.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew.roos View Post
    If the camera is set for 1600 ISO and you want to shoot at 3200 ISO using the camera's metering then you need to expose for one stop less than indicated (i.e. dial in -1 EV exposure compensation). .

    Andrew
    yeah, that's it !
    it must have been the dinner i ate
    removing all the blood from my brain
    making me say total insane things ...

    thanks for pointing this out,

    OP sorry for the confusion ...

  9. #9

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    A few years back I shot a candle lit scene in a church at Christmas and it was quite dark. I used Provia 400X pushed to 800 in a Konica Auto S3. From memory I was shooting at 1/8 at f/1.7
    Steve.

  10. #10
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    Only a guess, but I would say monopod, Tri-X, full aperture at 1/4 second and over develop by about 2 minutes.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

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