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  1. #11
    smieglitz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Bennett
    ... Could I not use my light meter to help with this? If I meter through the clear leader (i.e. film base and fog), then look for a zone 1 frame that is 1 stop more dense, am I on the right track?
    Doug,

    After all my long-winded replies I forgot to mention that yes, you can probably use a good spot meter to read the frame densities and get you in the ballpark. You need to be careful of flare and target +1/3 stop (= 0.10 density) above the blank fbf frame to determine the proper - 4 stop exposure and film speed.

    (And BTW, "I think we're all Bozos on this bus.")

    Joe

  2. #12

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    Thanks for the information, Joe. I don't have a spot meter, but my Sekonic is accurate, and if I'm careful to meter a constant light source, it should work.

    Why I didn't build any density in any of the -4 frames (even at ISO 160) is still a mystery.

    I gave the Classic 400 a 5 minute presoak, but when I dumped the developer, it had picked up a noticeable blue color. Could this be a contributing factor?

    (And BTW, Joe, "Everything You Know Is Wrong").
    "If You Push Something Hard Enough, It Will fall over" - Fudd's First Law of Opposition

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Bennett
    Why I didn't build any density in any of the -4 frames (even at ISO 160) is still a mystery.
    I hate to mention this, but are you sure that you mixed both Stock Solutin A and Stock B to make the working solution? If you did not, the result would be no density as all as both parts are necessary to make the working solution.

    Several people have reported early death of Pyrocat-HD stock solutions in the past, only to later discover that they failed to add one of the stock solutions in mixing the working solution. You would be amazed to hear how often this happens, but I must admit that I have done it myself more than once.

    Sandy

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    I hate to mention this, but are you sure that you mixed both Stock Solutin A and Stock B to make the working solution? If you did not, the result would be no density as all as both parts are necessary to make the working solution.

    Several people have reported early death of Pyrocat-HD stock solutions in the past, only to later discover that they failed to add one of the stock solutions in mixing the working solution. You would be amazed to hear how often this happens, but I must admit that I have done it myself more than once.

    Sandy
    I don't think so, Sandy. I developed what looks to be normal-ish density in the zone 5 and zone 8 frames.
    "If You Push Something Hard Enough, It Will fall over" - Fudd's First Law of Opposition

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Bennett
    I don't think so, Sandy. I developed what looks to be normal-ish density in the zone 5 and zone 8 frames.
    Doug,

    Sorry, I misunderstood the report of your original test. I though you were saying that you got no density at all on the negatives. My mistake for not reading closer.

    Sandy

  6. #16
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    An article in The Black & White Enthusiast called "Taking Control" by Andrew Smallman. He discusses exposure and graduation and how to determine a personal EI using an exposure meter to help plot a E/D curve. Sounds like what you guys are all doing at the moment

  7. #17
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    Doug, you have the correct method of testing, just try it again.

    I use a white wall in full sun for 35mm testing. Don't use low enough numbers on speed and aperture to get into reciprocity trouble with any film, stay below 1/2 second if possible. This is one cause for bad low numbers, at times around a second, all bets are off.

    Take the first shot at zone V. If you are at zone V, subtract 4 stops to get to zone I. If you are at zone V, add III stops to get to zone VIII. If you vary your speeds accordingly, there should be something there on the bottom.

    My mention of a step wedge is what I use with 4x5 film testing. It won't fit in a 35mm camera too well. tim

  8. #18

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    Thanks, Tim. I was shooting the test with my Minolta Autocord 6x6, and did indeed stay at 1/30 or above. It's a mystery, but I'll have another go at it. I may first test with a film/dev combo that I'm already fairly successful with. HP5/HC-110 dil H probably. For all of my playing with films and developers, I have a hard time beating that combo.
    "If You Push Something Hard Enough, It Will fall over" - Fudd's First Law of Opposition

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