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  1. #1

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    How to control Fuji Instant FP-3000 B contrast

    I decided to work with Fuji FP-3000 B for a new project, this is my first experience with this material. I expose the first print at the Fuji settings, 3200 ASA develop 20 sec at 21º C and it came out high contrasted, so I make another shot with the same settings to be sure that there wasn't an error. The result was the same. I develop the third film for 5 seconds more and no noticeable changes occurred, just a slight increase of the detail in the high lights, then I increase the exposure rating the film at 2500 ASA, etc. I go through the whole pack increasing the development and exposure and get no good print, one with a reasonable range of tones.

    Any suggestions? is this film high contrast? there is a way to test it to find the desired contrast?

    two scans of the best results:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Jose A. Martinez

  2. #2

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    I have indeed found FP-3000B to be inherently high in contrast. My absolute best exposures were with my century-old, uncoated Wollensak Velostigmat lenses. On film, these lenses render quite low contrast; on the Fuji instant film, they were pretty well balanced. Here's an example:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Your scenes look quite high in contrast to begin with, and I can understand how the Fuji prints might accentuate that. Have you tried it in low-contrast situations?

  3. #3
    EASmithV's Avatar
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    Funny, I've found that in manual cameras it needs to be exposed at asa 2500
    www.EASmithV.com

    "The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera."— Dorothea Lange
    http://www.flickr.com/easmithv/
    RIP Kodachrome

  4. #4
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    They look too dark to me. I'd increase the exposure.

  5. #5

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    I've always found it to be low in contrast too.
    so I'd agree with ic-race that maybe it's the exposure that's the problem

  6. #6

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    Thanks all... I'll try, again, more exposure, maybe less development, "expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights".
    Jose A. Martinez

  7. #7
    hsandler's Avatar
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    I have read that the paper negatives from fp-3000b are scannable. The suggestion was to thoroughly overdevelop before peeling them apart, air dry the negative, then scan as a reflective object with a flatbed and invert in photoshop. Maybe it will give lower contrast than the print.

  8. #8

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    I think I have a good result rating the film at 2500 ASA, and develop less, 15 sec at an ambient temp of 21º C.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    @hsandler, I'll try the negative scan method. Observing the negs I'm thinking that if I peel them from it's base, if it's possible, I can mount them in a black plexiglass and made a sort of "instant film amprotipe".
    Jose A. Martinez

  9. #9
    cscurrier's Avatar
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    That last one looks much nicer! If you're still looking for less contrast, though, I second trying to scan the negatives. I played with scanning them before and they seemed to work quite well.
    "If it can be written or thought, it can be filmed." - Stanley Kubrick

  10. #10

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    After another pack of ten prints I found out that following the earlier quoted Ansel Adams's motto, "expose for the shadows...", I get a more desirable contrast. The key for what I'm trying to do is to place the zone III correctly. The film has a very short dynamic range, so it's easy to fall in a very contrasty image if you misplace your zones, and there is no room to alter the developing process, at least as far as I know.

    The whole exercise allowed me to catch up on the practice of the zone system, I get my Pentax spot meter out of my gear cabinet after some time of no use.

    Here the more recent print:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I also gave a try to the scan suggestion. The result was a discovery to me, I didn't expect the outcome. I guess this is a discussion for the hybrid forum, but here it goes: I scan the negative as it is, normally develop, I inverted it in photoshop, and it looks like a Sabatier version of the original positive:

    The negative as it is:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Inverted in photoshop:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Flipped horizontally to mimic the orignal positive:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Jose A. Martinez

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