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  1. #41
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Developing times for 60 year old film.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    If the base is Nitrite, it can be used to "save your bacon"

    I think you mean Nitrate.

    As I understand it, if the film is Safety Film, and is of that vintage, it will say Safety Film in the rebate.

    EDIT: this photo-net thread might be informative for you Stone: http://photo.net/black-and-white-pho...g-forum/00Tiud
    Yes I wasn't too sure I was pronouncing it right.

    According to the link its certainly NON-Pan so it's orthochromatic which is cool, I don't however have a pan setup which is unfortunate, it would be fun to develop by inspection.

    I wonder why they got rid of Ortho in favor of Pan when you can't be as perfect with the development. Obviously pan was sensitive to red and Ortho wasn't, so I guess red flowers wouldn't show up? Lol

    Fun times, thanks for the info.


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    The Gaevert is sort of foggy like it was a soft focus shot, and obviously one side was exposed to light over the years. Thanks.

    Were either of those Nitrite based emulsions? I am REALLY curious about any knowledge on this...
    Gevaert is foggy because of stand development in Rodinal plus possibly an overexposure. Never do the stand dev with aged film, it digs up any base fog you possibly have.
    This one side was not exposed to light, it was ruined by me by squeezing the 5x7 sheet into 2-reel jobo tank for stand development.

    Both are safety films, not Nitrite.

  3. #43
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Developing times for 60 year old film.

    Quote Originally Posted by werra View Post
    Gevaert is foggy because of stand development in Rodinal plus possibly an overexposure. Never do the stand dev with aged film, it digs up any base fog you possibly have.
    This one side was not exposed to light, it was ruined by me by squeezing the 5x7 sheet into 2-reel jobo tank for stand development.

    Both are safety films, not Nitrite.
    Cool, thanks! I don't do stand development in general but good to know about the base fog.

    I wonder if that's why Ilfsol 3 worked ok, because its such a faster developer there isn't time for the fog to be pulled out....

    Hmmm...

    Well thanks this was fun. Haha


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    I wonder if that's why Ilfsol 3 worked ok, because its such a faster developer there isn't time for the fog to be pulled out....
    Yes, my conclusion so far is to expose generously and use some aggressive developer with the films with known high fog. Paper developer works the best for me (Orwo N113 for 2-2:30 minutes), with 120 and up formats. It gives more grain but much more usable negative tonally. With 135 the grain will be too excessive.

  5. #45
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    OK just finished processing 5 rolls of 120 and among them were 2 images I had forgotten about, the "comparison" shots of the Verichrome images which I took on TriX400.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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