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  1. #41
    fotch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricardo12458 View Post
    ............The only problem is......a lot of the units are denominated in grains.....don't think there is a modern scale that measures so accurately....

    -R
    Isn't that what shooters use for reloading ammo? If so, try one of the mail order sporting goods outfits like Gander Mountain.
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricardo12458 View Post
    ...The only problem is......a lot of the units are denominated in grains.....don't think there is a modern scale that measures so accurately....

    -R
    The conversion from grains to grams is straightforward, either by formula or table. At that point, it is the exact same issue as any other small quantity measurement. You make a solution using enough of the chemical that your scale can accurately weigh it, and then use a volume of the solution that delivers the original quantity specified in the recipe. This is the reason to use drops or mls of 1% or 10% solutions.
    www.thelightfarm.com
    Dedicated to Handmade Silver Gelatin Paper, Film, and Dry Plates.

  3. #43

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    I use Michael Smith's Amidol formulae because shipping is getting really expensive, and the Lodima prints come out so nice. I do get a weird floating goopy-looking precipitate after the sodium thiosulfate sits for 24 hours. Tests say it's still good, but I never saw it with Kodak fix--maybe it's just the result of evaporation and the Na-thio coming back out. I'm not a chemist.

  4. #44
    cmacd123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricardo12458 View Post
    .... and others by companies that no longer exist [what's Haloid?] ....
    -R
    As I recall, the Haloid Corp of Rochester NY was approached by Young Chester Carlson with his new imaging invetion, and the product was so sucessful, the company changed it's name - To XEROX.
    Charles MacDonald
    aa508@ncf.ca
    I still live just beyond the fringe in Stittsville

  5. #45
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    I'm already going in about 12 different directions, but reading threads like this makes me realize I will never ever get bored. I can see trying out these neat recipes in my future....

  6. #46
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    if you mix your own chemistry from raw chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by ricardo12458 View Post
    I happen to have a 40s-era darkroom handbook with formulary. Agfa 47/130 [and a lot in between; in later contexts you may see this being referred to as Ansco 47...it was published just before the Second World War started], Kodak D76/DK50/D52/D72, some Gevaert formulas, and others by companies that no longer exist [what's Haloid?] and still others compounded by the author himself! Haven't bothered to compound any of the formulas yet, but I may just wake up one day and place an order for some of these raw chemicals It also has formulas for certain other chemicals [uranium toner, anyone?] The only problem is......a lot of the units are denominated in grains.....don't think there is a modern scale that measures so accurately....

    -R
    Does that Agfa book have color formulas? CN17 or Whatever develops Negative Ultra K film . Also color reversal film like ORWO color film that's transparency film?

    I need both formulas to develop some film, I do have a C-41 instruction that supposedly works at 20° temps but I would prefer to use the original formulas.

    Thanks


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  7. #47
    Mick Fagan's Avatar
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    Iíve been mixing from raw chemicals for so long now, I would never go back to pre-mixed packets. The control one has, sort of creeps up on you. Plus if stored correctly, shelf life is indefinite; Iím currently using a bottle of Kodak Bromide with a use before 1964 date.

    Ansco 135, D72, D76, FX4, FX5B are mostly what Iím currently using; with D76 and Ansco 135 my current go to combination.

    Mick.

  8. #48
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    I have been 'mixing my own' since I started in 1951 at the school Photo-Soc and the Chemistry Master showed us how to mix our own developers-- then when I got a job in 1959 as a Photographer in the Civil Service Ministry of Aviation I discovered a room there like an 'Aladdin's Cave' of ex- WWII chemicals all dusty !! I told the Boss I could make up D163 print developer for the Senior Photographers who each had a small darkroom, using 'whole plate' glass negatives and he didn't believe me at first but when I showed him I saved the Department a LOT of money and used up the old chemicals from 1945 !!!
    An 'Old Dog still learning New Tricks !

  9. #49
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    if you mix your own chemistry from raw chemicals

    Does anyone mix the t-grain developers like DD-X or Tmax? I know they are "proprietary formulas" but has anyone figured them out yet?


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  10. #50
    BradS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Does anyone mix the t-grain developers like DD-X or Tmax?

    ~Stone
    Ilford recommend DD-X for all of their films. It is not specific to the Delta / TMAx films.



 

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