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  1. #11
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    OK, I hear you rap the tank.

    A long time ago, I'd occasionally get air bells and I established a routine that I follow. I've never had air bells since.

    Pour developer in and invert about 5 times, then rap hard 4 times. 30 seconds later invert about 3 times and rap hard about 4 times... Continue on the pattern every 30 seconds but after a while not rapping as hard or as many times.

    But I use a standard developer (D-76 1:1). Do you stand develop the Rodinal?

    Maybe your procedure is similar. If so, then I'd doubt air bells and we'll need to dig for other possibilities.

    I don't have an opinion to offer about pre-soak. It may help but if you add a step you don't need you will just waste time.

  2. #12

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    My agitation scheme is as follows. Pour the developer in, then rap the tank on the counter. I then agitate for 30 seconds with inversions. I then agitate 10 seconds of every minute. I rap the tank after every 10 seconds of agitation. Air bells were my first thought, However, I use this same agitation scheme with Tri-X and Plus-X without problem. I do stand develop sometimes but only with Tri-X that has been pushed. No problems there either.
    Bachelor of Fine Arts and Bachelor of Arts: Journalism - University of Arkansas 2014

    Canon A-1, Canon AE-1, Canon Canonet GIII 17, Argus 21, Rolleicord Va, Mamiya RB67, Voigtländer Bessa

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  3. #13
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Got me stumped, will have to wait to see what other opinions come in...

  4. #14
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    I always use continuous agitation, that means that I invert the tank, wait for 2 seconds (time for all the fluid to reach the top) and the invert again. If you have a tank which is real hermetic, you can do this with one hand and use the other hand e.g. for reading. The developing time reduces this way (20-30%). But air bubbles (and bromide streaks) will never be a problem.
    ---
    Uwe Pilz

  5. #15

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    I used to get air bells with 120 film (but not with 35mm for some reason) so instead of a 30 second initial agitation I started going a full minute, and reducing the overall time of development a bit. Solved the problem for me.
    Good luck!

  6. #16
    AgX
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    In theory the emulsion has influence on the affinity for airbells adhering. So a pre-bath with a weak solution of wetting-agent including agitation could help.

    But whereas most of the artefacts look like airbells adhered to the film for part of the development process, those artefacts left above have not a pronounced ring around bit a shallow halo instead. That puzzles me.

  7. #17
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    I had problems with air bells on my film and got rid of them by making sure I tap the tank, firmly, several times.

    Previously, I was a bit hesitant to hit the tank too hard for fear of cracking the plastic or denting the metal tanks because my processing area is an old style, cement laundry sink. I was afraid the hard surface would damage things.

    The solution to the problem came at the suggestion of another APUG member: Use a rubber mat.
    You could use an old mouse pad or whatever but I use a 12" square piece of rubber floor mat.

    Now, I can rap the tank as many times as I need to, almost as hard as I want, and I don't have to worry about hurting anything. Having the mat also reminds me to tap the tank often.

    Not sure this is your solution but I think it makes an interesting aside.
    Randy S.

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  8. #18

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    Could the OP's problem be caused by condensation on the film pre- or post-exposure?

    +1 for presoaking with a few drops (literally) of wetting agent; it works for me and is certainly not a waste of my time; if you want fine results use good film and a fine process. Why go to all that trouble to compose, meter, focus, correctly expose etc if you don't give the film the best treatment? It's like an artist not washing his brushes because he couldn't be bothered, then wondering why his colours are always polluted!

    Cheers and HNY all,
    kevs
    Last edited by kevs; 01-01-2013 at 12:21 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    testing...

  9. #19

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    hi darkroom317

    just after your film is fixed
    have you looked at your negatives ?
    are the spots / stains there, or is it after the film
    is washed ...

    maybe ...
    it isn't airbubbles when you process but
    water stains when you dry your film ...
    what kind of water are you using, are you a user
    of photoflo or a similar product ?
    some folks use distilled water for their final rinse before using
    photoflo, and from what i remember using too much photoflo
    can cause problems, it only takes a drop or 2 in the water ...
    ask me how ..

  10. #20

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    I use regular water for wash and the photoflo. I do soak film in distilled water before photoflo with 35mm because I have had water spotting issues that for some reason don't occur with 120. The photoflo is mixed with distilled water in both cases. I don't know if the spots are there right after fixing. The issue is in the emulsion. These spots have a lower density that the surrounding area. Again this is only happening with Foma emulsions.
    Bachelor of Fine Arts and Bachelor of Arts: Journalism - University of Arkansas 2014

    Canon A-1, Canon AE-1, Canon Canonet GIII 17, Argus 21, Rolleicord Va, Mamiya RB67, Voigtländer Bessa

    http://darkroom317.deviantart.com/

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