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  1. #121

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pinholemaster View Post
    "I believe that it would exhaust the fixer rather fast."
    what they said ...
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
    artwork often times sold for charity
    PM me for details

  2. #122
    Martin Aislabie's Avatar
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    No Stop Bath

    Guys, I am looking for some advice

    I want to make some 20x24 prints but only have room for 3 20x24 inch trays in my current darkroom set up.

    I cannot sensibly stack trays either.

    What I was going to do was Dev > Fix > Rinse/Water Holding bath.

    From the water holding bath I can take the print to my Archival Washer.

    I know I am going to kill off the Fix at a quite a rate – but that’s OK

    Should I add some Stop Bath (acetic acid) to the Fix (Ilford Hypam) to help resist the alkali of the Dev ?

    Alternatives anyone?

    Martin

  3. #123
    Travis Nunn's Avatar
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    Single tray processing?

    Somebody else posted this link here on APUG before...
    http://www.heylloyd.com/technicl/single.htm
    ____________________________________________
    Searching my way to perplexion

  4. #124
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Aislabie View Post
    Guys, I am looking for some advice

    I want to make some 20x24 prints but only have room for 3 20x24 inch trays in my current darkroom set up.

    I cannot sensibly stack trays either.

    What I was going to do was Dev > Fix > Rinse/Water Holding bath.

    From the water holding bath I can take the print to my Archival Washer.

    I know I am going to kill off the Fix at a quite a rate – but that’s OK

    Should I add some Stop Bath (acetic acid) to the Fix (Ilford Hypam) to help resist the alkali of the Dev ?

    Alternatives anyone?

    Martin
    I can't advise adding acid to your fix, but you could consider using your washer to rinse and stop before the fix step, just turn it over before you go to washing.

  5. #125

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    Hello Martin
    We have recommended for years to stop using STOP BATH, especially when using Clayton fixers. Most acid, rapid fixers are buffered against the alkalinity of developer carry over. The sequence of develop, fix, rinse is how processors are set up. You won't "kill off" the fixer rapidly. You always can replenish the tray with fresh working strength fixer as you go along. You don't even have to waste your life rinsing between trays.

  6. #126
    billschwab's Avatar
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    I'm with Jason on this. I would also not recommend skipping a stop bath when printing, especially when doing large prints.

    Can you use your 3 trays in the darkroom for dev -> stop -> 1st fix and then go outside your darkroom for the 2nd fix and wash? I used to do this when I had limited space and had no problems. I would even use floor space when I didn't have the surface area.

  7. #127

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    I'll third the "no stop" method. There are globs of threads about the pro & cons of using a stop bath. It seems to be a personal matter.

  8. #128

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    Quote Originally Posted by billschwab View Post
    I'm with Jason on this. I would also not recommend skipping a stop bath when printing, especially when doing large prints.

    Can you use your 3 trays in the darkroom for dev -> stop -> 1st fix and then go outside your darkroom for the 2nd fix and wash? I used to do this when I had limited space and had no problems. I would even use floor space when I didn't have the surface area.
    Why would you have a 2nd fix?

  9. #129

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    Quote Originally Posted by JustDave View Post
    Why would you have a 2nd fix?
    The first fix removes the unexposed silver. The second fix removes the by-products of the first fix. At least that what it is in a nutshell. There are other many detailed (and heated) threads on the merits of single and two-bath fixing methods. A search will turn up plenty to read.

  10. #130

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    About skipping the stop - I have seen stains result a number of times over the years (mostly in community labs) from skipping a fix, at least when using an acid fix, which seems to be what you are using. The first time was when I was in the Army, the stains were a pinkish - brown, using Dektol straight into the regular Kodak powder fix. I was told by a lab technician years later that even using plain water as a stop will risk the same stains, with an acid fix.
    You might be better off using an alkaline fix, like TF-4, with a second bath, and then pitching at least the first one when finished.
    If you search the threads for TF-4, you'll find info on it.



 

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