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  1. #141
    Martin Aislabie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn View Post
    One other possibility...how easy is it for you to pour out one of those big trays? One could be develop, then go into the stop bath...then pour the stop bath out into a wide-mouthed gallon container (keeping the print in the tray)...perhaps a quick rinse with water...then pour in the fixer. You could even do a second fix bath the same way.

    Not exactly easy to do with such large trays, but keeping the volume of stop bath to a minimum would help.

    Vaughn
    Vaughn, I am considering doing just that but only for the second half of the process (in the kitchen)

    I don't have the space to pour out 20x24 trays in the darkroom, but into wide mouthed jugs in the kitchen sink should be more do-able.

    If I keep the liquid volumes down, it shouldn't slosh round the tray too uncontrollably as I try to lift the tray up to pour.

    Thanks

    Martin

  2. #142

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    Water... used as Stop bath?

    Hey all,
    Today I went to a local photography store that rents darkroom time. I took a look inside to see what they had to offer before renting time. I noticed that they did not have any stop bath for developing film. I asked a worker there and she said that they used water... Will this have any negative effects on my film? Or is this not the big deal i thought it would be?

    Oh and, if this is in the wrong section please forgive me (:

    Thanks everyone!
    Lynette

  3. #143
    ozphoto's Avatar
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    Hi Lynette,
    Not at all. I used water when I studied at college - it works just fine.
    Just rinse film with the water before fixing and you'll be ok.

  4. #144
    hoshisato's Avatar
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    I use water after pouring out the developer and I have seen no side effects.
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  5. #145
    ZorkiKat's Avatar
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    Water in this case won't be stop bath. It's more of a RINSE. Water does not neutralise the developer - or stop its activity, hence the name "stop". Water will just rinse the developer away and leave less in the film before it goes into the fixer. The developer will continue to act, though it would probably create any significant effect if the fixer is acid enough (assuming that it's the type used) and acts quick enough the undeveloped halide before the remaining, and yet to be neutralised, developer has the chance to work on them.

    You should do the rinses quickly. Two or three if possible. That's to remove as much residual developer, and to weaken its alkalinity, as possible. A stagnant, extended rinse in an unchanged bath of water can lead to added silver densities. Think of the principle behind the dev-water-dev-water divided development procedures.

    The alkaline carry over will make the fixer's life shorter. Not so much an issue with rented darkrooms where the chemicals are likely flushed down after each use.
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  6. #146
    fotch's Avatar
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    Lynette, it depends on who you want to believe. The film designers, engineers, and manufacturers all recommend using a stop bath with both paper and film. The following was copied from Ilford site. Kodak has something similar.

    "Stop bath
    After development, rinse prints in an acid stop bath, such as ILFOSTOP or ILFOSTOP PRO.
    A stop bath stops development immediately, reduces the risk of staining and will extend the life of the fixer bath. The use of a stop bath is strongly recommended.

    Ilford ILFOSTOP stop bath brings develpment to an end, and prolongs the life of the fixer. Works quickly."
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  7. #147
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fotch View Post
    After development, rinse prints in an acid stop bath, such as ILFOSTOP or ILFOSTOP PRO.
    A cynical person might suggest that it was in Iford's interest to sell Ilford stop bath!

    My view is that it is a good idea to use a stop for prints to keep the fixer bath working longer and it is also a good idea to use it for film if you plan to re-use the fixer. If you use your fixer once then discard it though, the stop bath is of little (if any) benefit.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  8. #148
    BirgerA's Avatar
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    I've used both water, citric acid (smells less) or a weak solution of fixer as stop.

    I have not noticed any difference in the end result from any of the approaches used, but I have to admit that I have not done any real/proper/scientific comparison.

    The main purpose is as stated above that you remove developer before using the ordinary fixer.

    Best regards

    Birger A.

  9. #149
    fotch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post
    A cynical person might suggest that it was in Iford's interest to sell Ilford stop bath!

    My view is that it is a good idea to use a stop for prints to keep the fixer bath working longer and it is also a good idea to use it for film if you plan to re-use the fixer. If you use your fixer once then discard it though, the stop bath is of little (if any) benefit.


    Steve.
    Well, a stupid cynical person. There is no way for the film companies to insure that they will buy Ilford or Kodak Stop bath, and its not exactly a big market. I suppose that same cynical person would use really cheap crappy film, based on their logic.:rolleyes:
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  10. #150
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fotch View Post
    Well, a stupid cynical person. There is no way for the film companies to insure that they will buy Ilford or Kodak Stop bath, and its not exactly a big market.
    I was hoping that my inclusion of an exclamation mark would show my comment to be in jest. I don't use those silly smiley face thingies. Perhaps I should.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.



 

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