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  1. #391
    zsas's Avatar
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    I use acetic stop bath, because every roll of film or sheet of paper that is not stopped as such, a baby dolphin will die and I just can't stomach the thought of all those dolphins....

    Seriously, as fun as this discussion is, OP, you will get many reasons pro/against, hopefully some more rational than mine....
    Andy

  2. #392

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    Hi Todd,

    It depends - if you're using RC papers, you'll probably get away without using stop bath. If you're using FB papers, you might experience brown or mauve staining caused by developer carried over into the fixer, especially on prints larger than (say) 10x8". I'd say that if you're making fine prints to sell or exhibit, play safe, use fresh stop bath (exhausted stop is about as useful as a wet fish finger) and soak the print for at least two minutes. Modern papers don't seem quite as prone to this, and you might get away with it, but when you've ruined a few sheets of expensive paper you'll start to wish you'd bothered using a stop bath! Ask me how I know... :-)

    Cheers,
    kevs
    testing...

  3. #393

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    I used water "stop" for years but from time to time I got some staaining on prints that wasn't visible for some time. My fixer (two bath in a Nova slot processor) was always fresh. Now I use an acid stop bath, not acetic but sodium metabisulphite which I think is more compatible with neutral fixer. It is very smelly (SO2) but in the slot it's not as bad as an open tray. I have not had a stain since doing this.

  4. #394
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    a stop bath,made of either a light acetic or citric acid. It will neutralize the alkaline developer quickly and bring development to a complete stop. Alternatively, a plain water rinse may be used.
    Excess fixer causes staining and highlight loss with some toners. This step removes enough fixer to avoid this problem. For selenium toning, a brief 10-minute wash is sufficient. For direct sulfide toning, a 30-minute wash is required. However, the bleaching process required for indirect sulfide toning calls for a complete 60-minute wash prior to toning. Otherwise, residual fixer will dissolve bleached highlights before the toner has a chance to ‘redevelop’ them.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  5. #395
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    For paper, I always use stop. For film, never.


    Steve.

  6. #396

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    For many years I've only used water stop bath. However, had fogging problem with Kentmere Kentona paper. Tried it with a citric acid stop bath and fogging not an issue. Too bad the paper is no longer available since it produces a nice warm tone.
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

  7. #397
    fotch's Avatar
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    Very important!
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  8. #398
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I use a 1% sodium metabisulfite solution as a stop in my Acufine tank line, because the development times can get short, particularly in the summer as I adjust the time for ambient temperature, but I use an alkaline fixer, so I'm not inclined to use a stronger acid stop.

    Let me see if I can find a good thread on this, and I'll merge and make it a sticky. It's a recurring issue.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
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  9. #399
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Eight threads merged--and those are just the ones that were obvious from the title. I've let stand subtle variations like, "Do I need a stop bath with a Jobo?" and I haven't investigated the various threads that are simply called "Stop Bath," not to mention the threads on this subject that surely exist with annoying titles like "????A QUESTION.....??????"
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  10. #400
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Stop bath is more important with papers particularly fibre based where there's more carry over of developer. it's far less important with films and a water rinse is just as good.

    All the film/paper manufacturers recommend stop bath OR a water rinse with films, but always stop bath with papers. The manufacturers know best

    Ian



 

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