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  1. #21
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    Fomapan 400 in 1+25 or 1+50 warm Rodinal (>25C) with strong agitation.

  2. #22

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    T

    i hate to suggest this, but make some caffenol c real sloppy and add print developer to it ..
    don't measure any of your ingredients ( THAT'S KEY!)

    and add print developer to it, make sure print developer is spent, kind of brown it will work best that way ...
    ( this works great with black ansco 130, if you have any of that USE IT or add about 11g/L of glycin to your dektol, they are similar )

    overexpose your film by about 4 stops and stand develop it in your soup for about 25-30minutes ...
    make sure the developer is kind of warm ... ( above 68, less than 75º )

    with sheet film you will get VERY dense film, but with roll film, nice contrast, fog/stain and prominent grain...

    you might do this without the coffee &c and stand develop your film in half spent, half fresh dektol
    maybe dilute 1:10 for about 25 mins, agitate every 12 mins ... or do it in the coffee stuff for half the time
    and then your dektol 1:7 for half the time ...
    change developers mid stream something harsh, something not harsh .. as bill said, you want to wreck your film !

    if you can get away with not shooting your subject full frame stand a bit back and let your
    composition swim a bit in your frame so you can use the magnification to your benefit.

    sounds like a fun project !
    john
    Last edited by jnanian; 01-03-2013 at 06:26 AM. Click to view previous post history.
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  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Burk View Post
    The wide angle is just to put a smaller image on the film. Don't move closer. My first thought was to use a Minox. Have you ever tried one of those?
    Here's what you do. Put the lens you were going to use on the camera. Set up the image so you're standing where you would be to snap the shutter. Then switch to the wide angle - and don't move. As long as you do not change the distance between the film and the subject, perspective will not change with focal length.

    The caveat is to not use a lens wide anough that it has all sorts of funny geometric distortion that makes straight lines curved or wavy.

    Aside from that - I agree with what others have said given your available materials. Use the grainiest film to begin with. Assuming the scene has an average luminance range, dilute your D76 to 1+3 and overdevelop big time. Don't underexpose the film. If anything, overexpose.

    Dektol will work great too, but you'll have to experiment first to find the right dilution. The standard paper dilutions will give very high contrast. Not sure if you want high contrast or not.

  4. #24
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    Also chemically - Lith print with some papers will give you huge grain and no color offset. For example Moersch easy lith in Fomabrom 111 or 112:

    http://darkosaric.deviantart.com/art...nt-7-129383244

    http://darkosaric.deviantart.com/art...nt-4-127696254

  5. #25
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Try shooting Delta 3200 at 200. Develop in Dektol for a thick negative. Enlarge using a high contrast filter.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  6. #26
    David Brown's Avatar
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    Acufine.

  7. #27
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    I've done Tmax3200 in Dektol, 1:3 for 3 1/2 minutes at 75F. Sharp, but grain the size of baseballs. Try that as a starting point for your project.

  8. #28
    cliveh's Avatar
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    I know this is a physical method, as opposed to chemical, but have you thought about using a grain screen in contact with the neg or print?
    Last edited by cliveh; 01-03-2013 at 02:16 PM. Click to view previous post history.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by cliveh View Post
    I know this is a physical method, as opposed to chemical, but have you thought about using a grain screen in contact with the neg or print?

    awww comm'on clive !
    that is too easy

    i was going to suggest he shoot a roll of film of grainy texture,
    and sandwich it with his negative when he printed it,
    or making an enlargement onto lith film and printing through it as you suggested ( like a combination print )
    but it is more fun to try to destroy film

    john
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  10. #30
    cliveh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    awww comm'on clive !
    that is too easy

    i was going to suggest he shoot a roll of film of grainy texture,
    and sandwich it with his negative when he printed it,
    or making an enlargement onto lith film and printing through it as you suggested ( like a combination print )
    but it is more fun to try to destroy film

    john
    For some aspects of photographic art (salt print scans of chemical reaction for instance) I totally agree with you. But for others, no.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

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