|
|
|
-
 Originally Posted by jnanian
awww comm'on clive !
that is too easy 
i was going to suggest he shoot a roll of film of grainy texture,
and sandwich it with his negative when he printed it,
or making an enlargement onto lith film and printing through it as you suggested ( like a combination print )
but it is more fun to try to destroy film
john
For some aspects of photographic art (salt print scans of chemical reaction for instance) I totally agree with you. But for others, no.
“The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”
Francis Bacon
-
I just read something interesting when researching LPD on the Ethol site. For grainy, but sharp negatives they recommend HP5 at EI 2000 in LPD 1:1 for 1 1/2 minutes. I may give this a try sometime!
-
-
Very nice and very VERY close to what I want to achieve.
How were THOSE done??
Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?
-
It's not a product of the negative. It's the Lith process in printing that gives this kind of look.
-
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
-
Lith looks great, but at this point, I am really not wanting to expand my horizon too wide. I bought "stuff" for Sarbatier effect printing and have had no chance to play with them yet. So I guess Dektol it is....
Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?
-
tkamiya,
I was looking through LP Clerk's Photography Theory and Practice, and think I have some validation of two ideas...
1. Dektol's the right developer to use:
In section 325 Silver Halide Grains... about the filimentary structure of developed silver grains, "they are roughly similar in shape to the original emulsion grains"... "These filiments grow from the sensitivity specks ... leads to some enlargement of the shape"... and "This enlargement is ... greater the more energetic the developer used"...
2. Expose normally or just slightly overexpose (about 2/3 stop over)... and Underdevelop! Try to get the main subject to fall on or around 0.3 density...
In section 345 Graininess... "On a negative the graininess reaches a maximum for a density of 0.3"
You will need to print on Grade 4 or 5 ... but I am sure that you will get the grain you want!
-
Originally Posted by Bill Burk
tkamiya,
I was looking through LP Clerk's Photography Theory and Practice, and think I have some validation of two ideas...
1. Dektol's the right developer to use:
In section 325 Silver Halide Grains... about the filimentary structure of developed silver grains, "they are roughly similar in shape to the original emulsion grains"... "These filiments grow from the sensitivity specks ... leads to some enlargement of the shape"... and "This enlargement is ... greater the more energetic the developer used"...
2. Expose normally or just slightly overexpose (about 2/3 stop over)... and Underdevelop! Try to get the main subject to fall on or around 0.3 density...
In section 345 Graininess... "On a negative the graininess reaches a maximum for a density of 0.3"
You will need to print on Grade 4 or 5 ... but I am sure that you will get the grain you want!
If you want large grain, isn’t under developing a bit counter intuitive?
“The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”
Francis Bacon
-
Originally Posted by cliveh
If you want large grain, isn’t under developing a bit counter intuitive?
Maybe. Intuitively, I think I've seen grainy prints from underexposed shots.
Fortunately, this could be easily tested. Sensitometric strips would reveal graininess. So step wedge exposures will "cover" all the exposures needed. Then develop a few strips, each to a different Contrast Index. Make a few prints.
Once the exposure and development is worked out, then it's just a matter of selecting "that" Exposure Index and Negative Density Range which meets tkamiya's new definition of quality.
-
Originally Posted by Bill Burk
Maybe. Intuitively, I think I've seen grainy prints from underexposed shots.
Fortunately, this could be easily tested. Sensitometric strips would reveal graininess. So step wedge exposures will "cover" all the exposures needed. Then develop a few strips, each to a different Contrast Index. Make a few prints.
Once the exposure and development is worked out, then it's just a matter of selecting "that" Exposure Index and Negative Density Range which meets tkamiya's new definition of quality.
Bill, my point was not about underexposed shots, but under development.
“The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”
Francis Bacon
|
|
Adv Reply
