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  1. #31
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    I just read something interesting when researching LPD on the Ethol site. For grainy, but sharp negatives they recommend HP5 at EI 2000 in LPD 1:1 for 1 1/2 minutes. I may give this a try sometime!

  2. #32
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    Self portrait by Stine (medium format film):

    http://www.apug.org/gallery1/showima...&searchid=7315

    Another one - 9x12 cm LF film at 100 iso.....

    http://www.apug.org/gallery1/showima...&searchid=7315

  3. #33

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    Very nice and very VERY close to what I want to achieve.
    How were THOSE done??
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  4. #34

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    It's not a product of the negative. It's the Lith process in printing that gives this kind of look.

  5. #35

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    Lith looks great, but at this point, I am really not wanting to expand my horizon too wide. I bought "stuff" for Sarbatier effect printing and have had no chance to play with them yet. So I guess Dektol it is....
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  6. #36
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    tkamiya,

    I was looking through LP Clerk's Photography Theory and Practice, and think I have some validation of two ideas...

    1. Dektol's the right developer to use:

    In section 325 Silver Halide Grains... about the filimentary structure of developed silver grains, "they are roughly similar in shape to the original emulsion grains"... "These filiments grow from the sensitivity specks ... leads to some enlargement of the shape"... and "This enlargement is ... greater the more energetic the developer used"...

    2. Expose normally or just slightly overexpose (about 2/3 stop over)... and Underdevelop! Try to get the main subject to fall on or around 0.3 density...

    In section 345 Graininess... "On a negative the graininess reaches a maximum for a density of 0.3"

    You will need to print on Grade 4 or 5 ... but I am sure that you will get the grain you want!

  7. #37
    cliveh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Burk View Post
    tkamiya,

    I was looking through LP Clerk's Photography Theory and Practice, and think I have some validation of two ideas...

    1. Dektol's the right developer to use:

    In section 325 Silver Halide Grains... about the filimentary structure of developed silver grains, "they are roughly similar in shape to the original emulsion grains"... "These filiments grow from the sensitivity specks ... leads to some enlargement of the shape"... and "This enlargement is ... greater the more energetic the developer used"...

    2. Expose normally or just slightly overexpose (about 2/3 stop over)... and Underdevelop! Try to get the main subject to fall on or around 0.3 density...

    In section 345 Graininess... "On a negative the graininess reaches a maximum for a density of 0.3"

    You will need to print on Grade 4 or 5 ... but I am sure that you will get the grain you want!
    If you want large grain, isn’t under developing a bit counter intuitive?

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  8. #38
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cliveh View Post
    If you want large grain, isn’t under developing a bit counter intuitive?
    Maybe. Intuitively, I think I've seen grainy prints from underexposed shots.

    Fortunately, this could be easily tested. Sensitometric strips would reveal graininess. So step wedge exposures will "cover" all the exposures needed. Then develop a few strips, each to a different Contrast Index. Make a few prints.

    Once the exposure and development is worked out, then it's just a matter of selecting "that" Exposure Index and Negative Density Range which meets tkamiya's new definition of quality.

  9. #39
    cliveh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Burk View Post
    Maybe. Intuitively, I think I've seen grainy prints from underexposed shots.

    Fortunately, this could be easily tested. Sensitometric strips would reveal graininess. So step wedge exposures will "cover" all the exposures needed. Then develop a few strips, each to a different Contrast Index. Make a few prints.

    Once the exposure and development is worked out, then it's just a matter of selecting "that" Exposure Index and Negative Density Range which meets tkamiya's new definition of quality.
    Bill, my point was not about underexposed shots, but under development.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  10. #40

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    THIS is where home rolling film, to take a bracket for over development
    a bracket for underdevelopment
    and a bracket for normal development would come in handy !

    nice detective work bill !

    maybe the facT that print compensation with a harder grade filter or paper
    or developer strength compensates for the underdevelopment boosts the grainy-ness
    of the final product ...

    T
    too bad you don't stick a sheet of paper ( small sheet ! )
    in your camera,
    rate it for iso 6 or 12 or 24 depending on the paper and kind of light
    and then take that paper negative, and put it on a skillet
    with a sheet of paper towel, face down, and wax it with parafin or beeswax or ?
    to make it translucent-er, and then ... enlarge it ... you might get nice grain ( and paper texture! )
    that way as well, and waxing the paper takes about 3 minutes from start to finish ...
    ( or make a paper contact print internegative of your hopeful print, and contact print the final version )

    have fun
    john
    Last edited by jnanian; 01-05-2013 at 06:45 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: T not c
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
    artwork often times sold for charity
    PM me for details

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