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  1. #21
    snegron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brucemuir View Post
    TriX has been tweeked since the late 80's but even so you wont get the antiseptic grainless look that converted digi files deliver.

    You could try dialing in your development times for that 90 if you feel its a bit low contrast but the nice thing about those earlier lenses is they can give better shadows sometimes.

    RB lenses are so cheap you could pick up a more modern lens for not too much I'm sure. I bet you have something your not even using you could sell if you really feel you need a punchier lens.
    Those 6x7 negs are worth getting no matter how you do it and I've never really been disappointed with any mamiya glass I've had in a few formats.

    I need a tad (just a tad) of grain; enough to let the images stand out as only true film can. While I convert a bunch of color to B&W digi files all the time, it's just just not the same; they lack soul.

    The 90 does do well on shadows, but it lacks contrast/saturation (at least with the Porta films I put through it). I'm guessing if I use a filter on it I will get better results, but then my hopes for handheld diminish even more.

  2. #22
    snegron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ntenny View Post
    I don't know who first said "the sharpest lens in your bag is your tripod", but they were right. IMHO, if you're trying for "as close to AA as possible on rollfilm", the tripod is more crucial than choice of film.

    That said, though I'm not a T-grain fan myself, I think TMY seems like your best bet if you really need something that will work handheld while allowing you to stop down for appropriate depth of field. The difference in apparent grain between 35mm and 120 is there, of course, but less so in 645, and it sounds like you might still find Tri-X (or HP5) too grainy for your purposes. (Probably Fomapan 400 too; if anything it's a bit grainier.)

    But basically, high speed and small grain are natural enemies, and you aren't going to really be able to optimize for both at once. You might find that TMY is a good compromise, with perhaps FP4 or TMX as a slower film for tripod use and bright conditions.

    -NT


    I agree with you 100% regarding the tripod! However, due to weight/volume constraints of the places I will be shooting, I can't take a tripod. Looks like TMY might be the choice this time. I have never used it, so I will do some experimenting with it.

    p.s. I was just kidding about Master Ansel; if anything, I will be going for a more "refined street/portrait" look. My hopes are to ultimately get a few 16"x20" prints I can feel happy with.
    Last edited by snegron; 01-12-2013 at 05:40 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by snegron View Post
    I need a tad (just a tad) of grain; enough to let the images stand out as only true film can. While I convert a bunch of color to B&W digi files all the time, it's just just not the same; they lack soul.
    There are some very convincing grain emulation software programs out there. They are quite good but they still lack the depth and randomness of silver grain, IMO

  4. #24
    snegron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nikonic View Post
    There are some very convincing grain emulation software programs out there. They are quite good but they still lack the depth and randomness of silver grain, IMO
    I usually get nice B&W conversions with PS, but again there is that "something" that they lack. I'm hoping that I don't end up with the same type of results after scanning my 120 negatives though...

  5. #25

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    No, I mean something like TrueGrain. It's really good stuff if you're a wedding photographer or something and shooting film is out of the question. But currently I don't think there's a replacement for grain.

  6. #26
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    Tmax is far less grainy than Tri-X; for example you can make a 16x20 print from 6x7 TMY2/xtol and not see any grain. Lots of examples here. And you can shoot it at EI800 easily without getting problematically high contrast.

    If you want the little extra sharpness and bite of some visible grain, soup your Tmax in Rodinal. The grain has more magnitude than in Xtol or D76 but it is much finer than with Tri-X.

    Quote Originally Posted by snegron
    I need a tad (just a tad) of grain; enough to let the images stand out as only true film can. While I convert a bunch of color to B&W digi files all the time, it's just just not the same; they lack soul.

    The 90 does do well on shadows, but it lacks contrast/saturation (at least with the Porta films I put through it). I'm guessing if I use a filter on it I will get better results, but then my hopes for handheld diminish even more.
    Both of those statements indicate that your scanning workflow is lacking but this isn't the place to talk about it. I have a C41 scan howto in my FAQ (see below) though and you might want to play with S-curves to make your B&Ws punchier.

  7. #27
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    When I'm after a vintage look I go with Fomapan 400. Otherwise, I shoot Ilford HP5.


    Kent in SD

  8. #28
    polyglot's Avatar
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    PS the above is not to denigrate 400TX (Tri-X), which can look pretty damn good in medium format. However it (like HP5) is pretty damn crunchy. IMHO if you're moving to medium format, you want high resolution I don't reckon that 400TX in medium format is much better than Pan-F or Acros in 35mm. So I shoot T-grain films in big sizes.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by snegron View Post
    I'm shooting for the closest "Ansel Adams" look without having to go large format...
    then you want slower film so you get more information on the neg, whether you can see it or not, your mind knows it's there. Uncle Ansel made contact prints from 8 by 10 negs...

    so go slow, Ilford Pan F asa 50, or fuji acros asa 100 (wonderful stuff) -- if ur shooting portraits and landscapes you don't want high-speed anyway. Slower film will give you better tonal ranges, too, and amazing detail. I have the 11 by 14 blow-ups from Rolleiflex negs to prove it..

    if you still want speed, use Ilford XP-2, the c-41 process stuff -- it has an amazing tonal range when exposed at asa 400, grain better than asa 100 film, amazing blacks and whites without blocking up or blowing out. I can personally vouch for its wonderfulness.

  10. #30
    Alan W's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	62623Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	62622 First is tri x in d76 using rb67 and 50mm lens,Second is tmax 400 and tmax rs developer mamiya c330.I prefer tri x. but it's all good!

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