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  1. #21

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    If you look at the MSDS for Photo-Flo you will find that it does not contain formaldehyde but only propylene glycol, Triton X-100, and Anti-Foam B. While the anti-foam does prevent foaming it also tends to leave a residue on the film especially if you use the amount of Photo-Flo that Kodak recomends. I make my own wetting agent without the anti-foam and really don't have any problem with foaming.

    Propylene glycol ....................... 250 ml
    Triton X-100 ............................ 75 ml
    Distilled water to make .............. 1.0 l

    Jerry

  2. #22

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    I agree with hortense: all you are doing is reducing the surface tension of water so that it will sheet off instead of forming droplets. Wetting agents do not add anything to the film or emulsion.

    Photoflo is nothing more than a mild, low sudsing detergent. A drop or two of any mild detergent, such as dish washing liquid, in a gallon of water will do the job nicely. If it foams on top, you used too much. Add more water until foam subsides.

    Real soaps (rare today) can leave a residue in some waters, especially hard water. Avoid them.

  3. #23
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    The usual abundance of spot-on (pun intended) information, y'all.

    WRT formaldehyde -- that was one of those urban legends acquired through oral tradition that apparently, either had no basis in fact or has changed since the mid-seventies when I think I first heard it. neat to know.

    In the spirit of keeping the number of pollutants to an absolute minimum in or on my negs, I'm thinking that either a double bath of distilled water and isopropyl rubbing alcohol mixed 19:1 or a generous soaking with a spray bottle as I hang up the film will be a next step in refining my process.

    Are there "grades" or "qualities" of distilled water like there is drinking water, or is all distilled water the same? If the latter, I think I'll just get one of those 5-gallon cubes of distilled water with the spigot on the bottom, mix in 34oz of isopropyl alcohol and give it a shake before I pour. Then I'll setup two tanks, put film in one for a time, pull and shake it off, then put it in the other.

    Assuming that there's slightly more than the normal amount of contaminants in my tap/wash water, how long should the film sit in bath one before the quality of the water in the bath and that which saturates the emulsion equalizes?

    I'm thinking if I'm genuinely concerned about not only eliminating water spots but not leaving any contaminants in my negs which could have anti-archival effects, I shouldn't use the first bath over on successive runs of film in the same run, right? I should just shift bath two to be bath one, and pour a new bath two, etc?

    Also -- I'm thinking that any archival regime must include selenium toning, and any rinse after the KRST should follow the precautions above, right?

    -KwM-

  4. #24

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    I have the PhotoFlo MSDS and it is not formaldehyde at all. instead it is.......


    2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
    Weight % - Component - (CAS Registry No.)
    60-70 Water (007732-18-5)
    25-30 Propylene glycol (000057-55-6)
    5-10 p-tert-octylphenoxy polyethoxyethyl alcohol (009002-93-1)

    I am sure the stuff is just as toxic.
    Anyone can make a Digital print, but only a photographer can make a photograph.

  5. #25

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    Not as toxic as formaldehyde by a long shot - but don't drink it!
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

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