how many developers do you use, or have you settled on one
Originally Posted by jnanian
hi pioneer i brew it in a perk just as i would drink it ... 1 "scoop" / cup and an extra for the pot ..
so for my 11"cup" perkolater i put in 12 scoops ( which translates to 24 tablespoons ) .
then i let it cool a bit
then the soda
and stir
then the vit c and it foams ...
then a wee bit of ansco 130 ....
i use stock solution, or spent from 50 prints
i'm not too particular, my film is happy either way
i don't use it 1 shot like a lot of people use caffenol, but i use it until i get nervous it is dead ...
which tends to be after 3 or 4 months of continual film and print processing ...
You're not a real coffee drinker, real coffee is made in a French Press :-p
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
I voted one, for one at a time. Which one that is varies however. D76 when I was learning, or when I've shared a darkroom and that was what the darkroom stocked (I like it fine, but don't want to deal with powders at home). HC-110 dilutions E or H at home for some years, then Tetenal Ultrafin (worked well, went off too soon, but had the courtesy to turn a funny colour before dying), and Mörsch EFD for the last year or so.
hi pioneer i brew it in a perk just as i would drink it ... 1 "scoop" / cup and an extra for the pot ..
so for my 11"cup" perkolater i put in 12 scoops ( which translates to 24 tablespoons ) .
then i let it cool a bit
then the soda
and stir
then the vit c and it foams ...
then a wee bit of ansco 130 ....
i use stock solution, or spent from 50 prints
i'm not too particular, my film is happy either way
i don't use it 1 shot like a lot of people use caffenol, but i use it until i get nervous it is dead ...
which tends to be after 3 or 4 months of continual film and print processing ...
All right. This sounds like fun.
Fresh brewed caffenol here I come. I got all the mixings except the Ansco 130. I wonder, does Photo Formulary sell Ansco 130? I'll have to go searching.
So what is the acronym for film processing acquisition syndrome?
Two. I use either Rodinal (Adonal) at 1:50 or HC-110 at 1:50 approximately; one shot. They have different acutance. Use the same measurements by volume 12ml in 600ml water both developers. HC-110 is US concentrate.
There is a difference between a shaky or out-of-focus photograph and a snapshot of clouds and fog banks. —Erwin Schrödinger
I've been on this Adonal thing for a while but still use D76 1:3 regularly. As an Adonal aside, attached is a 300 DPI color scan of a 5x7 print, G1 Ilford Multigrade RC. It's a nothing scene almost exactly down-sun at 16:00hrs., Tri-X at EI 1000 stand developed in Adonal 1:100 for 60 minutes at about 69 degrees. The upper line on the image is one inch on the print. The lower line is 16mm on the print, so 1mm on the negative.
If you're one of those micro grain folks this just won't cut it but, even at 16x20, I don't mind it at all.
FWIW,
s-a
Last edited by semi-ambivalent; 02-17-2013 at 12:14 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: Correct typo
I photograph things to see what things look like photographed.
- Garry Winogrand
I mainly use PC-TEA, but for certain films like APX 100 and 400, I'll use Rodinal, depending on subject and my mood. I always use PC-TEA for sheet films in the Paterson Orbital.
However, the other day, just for a change, I souped a roll of APX 100 in Rodinal 1+50, and really liked the results.
And, as a result of trading some phenidone with a fellow Wellingtonian & Apugger (Stormpetrel), I ended up with some 510-Pyro. I dunked my other roll of APX 100 in that, diluted 1+100, and that's nice too.
So, it's two in-house plus one guest developer. Or two home-made ones and one commercial. The one thing they all have in common is very long shelf lives.
Originally Posted by redrockcoulee
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