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  1. #11

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    Bill, yes, it rolled up fine for my test. That's with the original backing paper, I think it should be okay with the 120 paper. Late last night I ordered a roll of this :
    http://generalphoto.biz/page/7
    Compard/Agfa Belgium Surveillance film 400 asa. NP. works out to about a buck and a half a roll (24 exp 126 format) including shipping. I think the APX100 is a similar film. This is supposedly more sensitive into the red. They said it is similar to Rollei retro400s.
    BTW the customer service was terrific.
    while i wait for the film I'm going to figure out the details on a perforating jig/work station.
    I'll probably use the 120 method to make up some color rolls. e6 etc...

  2. #12

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    Feb 2009
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    Thanks for the links. I do want to get some black and white for my 126.

    Let us know how your jig works out. I had a similar idea a while back but never got around to making it.
    - Bill Lynch

  3. #13

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    Dec 2012
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    Well, I got my unperforated film yesterday from General Photography in Germany. Pretty quick, Only 7 days. Spent about 3 hours finishing the jig. Took about 15 minutes to make the first roll up and get it in the cassette. I'm using a ⅛" hole punch for the film perf. It's a little small. I need to find something slightly larger. A normal hole punch is too big. It is working however, I've fired off a few shots and if I advance the film slowly it finds the perf and cocks the shutter. Wind too fast and it skates over the perf. BTW I found a craft punch that is perfect for making the frame registration holes in the backing paper when I need to make new backing paper.
    BTW the jig is similar to a dovetail jig in woodworking.

  4. #14
    AgX
    AgX is online now

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    Apr 2007
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    Why did that lever glide out of the holes?
    I mean, a hole is a hole. And as long as it is big enoug to receive the lever, the lever should stick.


    A somewhat mechanized punch would be nice. One could modify a office-punch by turning the bolt smaller and add a steel counter-plate with hole of corresponding size.

  5. #15

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    Dec 2012
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    I'm not sure why it skates by? Maybe the hole is off by a mm or so? What I thought about doing is modify the jig and just punch the hole twice making it an oval. I also may try sharpening a brass rectangular tube of the right size and epoxy that onto the hole punch with a counter-plate made from the next size tube. i believe they are available in Model Shops.

  6. #16
    AgX
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    I guess brass would be too soft.

  7. #17
    David Lyga's Avatar
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    Nov 2007
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    Philadelphia, PA USA
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    Kodak ImageLink microfilm is sold in non-perforated 35mm. It is rather difficult to get but is still avaliable. But...most vendors require that it be bought in multiples of many 100ft rolls (about $20 per roll). Speed for continuous tone (with very restricted latitude) is only about EI 2. For development try giving HALF the development time as for Pan F.

    I used to deal with this person at inceptiontech.com: dhaddad@inceptiontech.com. The location is 1 Sundial Ave, Suite 214, Manchester, NH. The phone is 603.222.2202 ext 212, or toll free: 877.475.2580. They sell it rebranded as Kodak Professional Film. I think that they required minimum of 50 rolls though. But you can get techical information and possibly others might wish to divide - David Lyga

  8. #18

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    Dec 2012
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    Thanks David. This Unperfed Agfa/Compard was so easy to get I'll probably explore this for a while. I just developed my first roll. Used Caffenol. Found the reason for the skipped frames. The hole punch didn't fully punch the hole. The film is tougher than I expected. The film sort of stretched or left little strands that held the punched out disc in place? anyway. A more careful firm punch and I should be ok. The next roll should be a lot easier. I need to work out a good developer for this.

  9. #19
    AgX
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    The film is tougher than I expected.
    Don't forget, it's PET.

  10. #20
    David Lyga's Avatar
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    Nov 2007
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    Philadelphia, PA USA
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    Don't get any film debris into your camera mechanism.

    And that leads to another question: if, in the future, you wish to use unperforated film as perforated film, is there a sane and predictable way to punch holes cleanly and accurately? I think not, in practical terms. - David Lyga

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