I would pass on Rodinal if you are shooting HP5+. Too grainy and Rodinal is not the best developer for medium speed films or push processing.
If you are renting a car, I would just mix up a some D76 and fixer using gallon jugs of water and throw them in the trunk. Be sure to label them as "Film Developer - Do Not Consume"
HC110 was supposedly developed for photo journalists developing their rolls in hotel rooms around the world. It is a thick syrup and a bottle will develop a lot of film.
You'll get about 15 rolls out of a 1L bottle of DD-X.
Ilford ID-11 (D76) comes in powder form to mix 1 liter. It's easy enough to buy a bottle of water and mix up a batch to develop a few rolls at a time. A few packs of ID-11 are also a lot easier to transport than bottles of DD-X.
I've developed a lot of film in hotel bathrooms. Usually I'll wait until I accumulate 10-15 rolls and then use up a full liter of something like ID-11 and fixer. That way there is nothing to store. If I do need to store mixed chemicals I stash them in my locked suitcase. Obviously you could put them in your car if that is how you are traveling.
Last edited by Harry Lime; 02-15-2013 at 05:21 PM. Click to view previous post history.
If you are careful, one 16 ounce (~480ml) bottle of HC-110 will develop 80 rolls.
This is assuming you are using the North American version.
Fixer is more of a problem, but then again "garden variety" powder fixer may be one of the easier chemicals to find.
You could probably source chemistry ahead of time and then mail it to yourself "General Delivery".
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
When I used to develop in hotel rooms I always used HC110. I really liked it's results with HP5. I like the unpublished dilution H 1:64 and a semi stand development system. I used to get really great results at around ISO 1250. The negatives are grainy but crazy sharp (mostly accutance) and with a really beautiful tonal range. Great combo!
Where are the old Kodak Tri Chem packs when you need them!
I don't see chemicals so much the issue as whether the film will be dry enough (assuming you process late at night) to put in negative holders (in the AM). May depend on the indoor humidity level.
"Far more critical than what we know or do not know is what we do not want to know." - Eric Hoffer
NEED LIQUID DEVELOPER FOR ROAD TRIP
Most hotel rooms I've been on have a hair dryer... So I'm sure drying (with care) won't be an issue
Originally Posted by mgb74
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I'm a big fan of HC-110. You can develop 1 roll at dilution B with only 1/4 of an ounce. More at high dilutions. My only qualm is you have to shoot at a slightly lower ASA. I've also used it for stand development at 1:100. The developer is very versatile.
“We are buried beneath the weight of information, which is being confused with knowledge; quantity is being confused with abundance and wealth with happiness.
We are monkeys with money and guns.”
― Tom Waits
Without question HC-110. But it is rather thick so my method of dealing with that and not wasting concentrate is as follows:
I would get a small 50ML graduate and two 1L graduates. I pour the measured syrupy HC-110 into the 50ML graduate, then pour the correct amount of tempered water into one of the 1L graduates. I then take the empty 1L graduate and pour a couple ounces of the tempered water to pour the HC-110 concentrate into so it starts to dissolve right away and is not stuck at the bottom. I then take the rest of the water in the 1L graduate and keep pouring it into the 50ML graduate that still has some residual concentrate into it until I have basically cleaned out the small graduate and then pour the remaining water into the developer graduate...
Basically I use HC-110 at dilution B which is 1+31 and it lasts a long time and the negs come out really great. It has pretty much replaced D76 for me.
"I'm the freak that shoots film. God bless the freaks!" ~ Mainecoonmaniac ~
Harry Lime good comment on the capacity.
I do reuse my DD-X to extend the capacity, my 35mm tank holds 250ml so at 1+4 a bottle gets me 20 rolls without reuse. I've gone as far as 4 total rolls per 250ml batch, adding 10% extra time for each successive run. The OP would only need to re-use 1 extra run for each batch to do his 40 planned rolls. Just need a small juice bottle to store it over night or develop every other day.
Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR
"We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin
In Canada, we drive a PT Cruiser, which has a lot of space to carry stuff, and being pretty experienced at this, have learned to pack efficiently. (We're house-sitters and travel around North America, Europe, the UK, etc, on a fairly regular basis). The idea of carrying an extra 1 litre bottle or two doesn't bother me, there's room for it. My first concern is making sure the film is processed and fixed properly, and washed correctly. It would be a luxury to use familiar materials, but the idea of mixing up powdered chemicals leaves me a little cold. For this trip, I'll happily settle for concentrates, some of which are probably just as good as D-76, anyway.
If, as Thomas says, HC-110 has the same characteristics and stores well, that's probably the answer. The best of both worlds, ease of portability and use, and the 'look' of the negatives I'm used to.
Thanks, PKM-25. I already have both of those graduates, and like I said, room in the car is no real problem, so I'll take them along and use your method to mix it up.
Rodinal looked like getting the nod, but if HC-110 gives the same characteristics as D-76, that's what I'm going with.