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  1. #1
    EASmithV's Avatar
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    Rodinal and FP4 and other expired films

    Hello,

    I have a bunch of expired Plus-X, Pan F, and FP4 that I need to shoot through and process.

    I was thinking about stand devving it all in Rodnial 1:100, but i've heard good things about HC-110.

    I might do a clip test with the HC-110, but I was wondering what your opinions were.

    If I were to develop the film in HC-110 B, how much extra would you give the film in addition to standard processing time? I already have a roll I shot and i'd love to save the negs as I have some images I really want off of it.
    www.EASmithV.com

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  2. #2
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    HC110 would be better for fogged/aged film as it introduces very little additional fog that normally occurs with most other developers.
    I'm unsure how Rodinal behaves in this repect but I do know HC110 is one of the better ones for fog.

    Both of these work well for stand it appears from what I've seen/read but I have little direct experience as I rarely do stand.

  3. #3
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    I have a whole thing of HC-110 want to trade for some fp4? I prefer Rodinal so I can send like a half a bottle which will cover all your films at 1:100

  4. #4

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    How much expired? Which format?
    My recipe for the old 120 and larger FP4 and PX from 80's and 90's is Rodinal 1+50, ca 12 minutes, box speed or little less. A half stop or so.
    1+100 is not good fogwise, it will give you every bit of it, present on the film.
    Weird enough, while doing experiments with Rodinal and HC-110, there was no substantial difference in fog for me. If the film is dead, then it is dead in both.

  5. #5
    Karl K's Avatar
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    Developing expired B+W film is "try and test" experiment, as noted above, depending on how long and under what conditions the films have been stored.
    I would suggest as a starting point, use either Rodinal or HC-110 as a one-shot with a 1:25 concentration and add about 10% to the recommended development time.
    The 1:25 concentration will yield a more contrasty negative, thereby reducing the apparant fog base. The fog base is not actually reduced, but relative to the blacks it will seem less visible.
    Gentle agitation is important as is complete fixing.
    If excessive grain rears its ugly head, you could try adding a 10% ( by volume) Sodium Sulfite solution to the developer.
    After having made some test prints of the first roll, you should have a good idea on how to proceed.



 

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