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  1. #21
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    The question remains whether any of these methods improve film speed for >100 ISO film speed emulsions. All these long threads about green light and H2O2 always end up naming ISO 50 or ISO100 films. If I wanted to boost speed of an emulsion, it would be Delta 3200, but for some reason this film is never mentioned in these threads.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rudeofus View Post
    The question remains whether any of these methods improve film speed for >100 ISO film speed emulsions. All these long threads about green light and H2O2 always end up naming ISO 50 or ISO100 films. If I wanted to boost speed of an emulsion, it would be Delta 3200, but for some reason this film is never mentioned in these threads.
    What you say is very true. Need more speed then use a faster film. But there are some who wish to pursue the will-o'-the-wisp of both fine grain and speed. Hypersensitization and latensification are really only used by astronomers. Due to the nature of their work they need both fine grain for detail and the greatest film speed possible. The average photographer has no need for either method. This is one of the reasons I don't like Anchell's book. He doesn't explain just how complicated and unpredictable these methods are. If his book was intended as an exhaustive treatise on photography I could see this subject's inclusion. But his book was never intended for that purpose. So we are only left with what I call the "gee-whiz" factor. "Gee-whiz this is neat, even though it has no practical use for me."

    Has anyone ever pondered why there are so few films faster than ISO 400 or why such fast films sell rather poorly. The average photographer just doesn't need them. Kodak discontinued their P3200 film commonly called TMZ for lack of demand.
    Last edited by Gerald C Koch; 02-21-2013 at 10:27 AM. Click to view previous post history.
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  3. #23

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    I used Hydrogen Peroxide frequently (way back when) as a young photographer assigned to a Military Intelligence unit. The procedure we employed (with Tri-X) was to heat an amount of hydrogen peroxide sufficient to cover the depth of a multi-reel tank to about 1/2 the depth of an empty reel. Stack the reels of exposed (but undeveloped) film above the empty reel and allow 10-12 minutes for the film to absorb the oxygen and then remove the reels, placing them immediately into a tank charged with developer. As I recall, it seems that the temperature of the hydrogen peroxide was about 100-110 degrees F.

  4. #24

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    i love threads like this.
    will hypering work with photo paper too ?? or just film ?
    i'd love to make my photo paper super speedy, i barely have use for film anymore ...
    ask me how ..

  5. #25

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    Hmm took a while to think about finding my old thread.
    Never came around to try it though partly because I dont have a stainless steel tank of any kind.

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