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  1. #51
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Wouldn't waiting 3 minutes between agitations introduce bromide drag?

    As much as this is interesting, I have a system...

    Thanks for the advice. I'm always open to learning its just sometimes I know myself and prefer simplicity over struggle.
    No. Or else I wouldn't be doing it.

    I wasn't trying to convince you to change. I'm glad you have something that works for you.

    Cool. To learn how to shape a film to suit your need is a little bit of work up-front, but helps a lot once you know it, and actually makes things simpler in that you can do anything you want with just one film.


    And, to Helinophoto - I thought it was important to contribute a counter balance to a statement that I found to be misleading, hoping that the OP wasn't avoiding Kodak films due to some technical reason that was avoidable.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  2. #52

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    Quote Originally Posted by steelneck View Post
    Very few of you did mention the Rollei 400 films, i guess it is because it is a small brand and also due to my precondition of using Rodinal. I guess there are not many here on apug that can say anything about that combination.
    Quality control and consistency are important. If you stick with Ilford, Kodak and Fuji, anything that goes wrong is your fault. If you use other names, all bets are off. They are all resurrected brand names and who knows what you're really getting, who makes it, or if it's just repackaged old stock.

    I don't want to worry about emulsion defects etc. when I shoot.

  3. #53
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Suggest a 400 film

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
    Quality control and consistency are important. If you stick with Ilford, Kodak and Fuji, anything that goes wrong is your fault. If you use other names, all bets are off. They are all resurrected brand names and who knows what you're really getting, who makes it, or if it's just repackaged old stock.

    I don't want to worry about emulsion defects etc. when I shoot.
    +1

    Looks like the OP is going ilford HP5+ so let's see what he thinks after his test


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  4. #54

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    The key is not to jump to quick conclusions when trying a new film. Spend some time with it and the developer (Rodinal in this case) to figure out how best to expose and develop (different times, dilutions, agitation etc) for one's purposes and taste. And make prints to evaluate. You can't shoot two rolls of film and decide it's good or no good.

  5. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by steelneck View Post
    It is made in the USA, the land who bullies the whole western world and most of the rest too. Don't ask, i do not want to start a political debate.
    First let me say that the following is NOT a political statement. But I challange the logical fallacy that Kodak is in some way responsible for the problems of the world and boycotting them will solve the west's problems. To be very polite your argument is simplistic in the extreme.

    If someone has a problem with the British government should they stop buying Ilford film? You are equating an economic entity with a political one. Like comparing apples and oranges.
    Last edited by Gerald C Koch; 02-20-2013 at 12:10 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

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  6. #56

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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
    Quality control and consistency are important. If you stick with Ilford, Kodak and Fuji, anything that goes wrong is your fault. If you use other names, all bets are off. They are all resurrected brand names and who knows what you're really getting, who makes it, or if it's just repackaged old stock.
    I don't think Foma is resurrected; to my understanding they're the modern direct descendant of the old Fotochema works. Certainly their films are of their own make, not rebranded or repackaged old stock. (Ditto Efke/Fotokemika, while they lived, though I don't think they ever made a 400 film.) And of course Kentmere is an Ilford brand, but Simon Galley has been quite explicit that the Kentmere films are a different emulsion from anything sold under the Ilford name.

    As far as I can think, the only company to which your caveat really applies is Rollei/Maco. Which may explain why no one has had much to say about their films in this thread.

    -NT
    Nathan Tenny
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    -The Little Technical Library, _Developing, Printing, And Enlarging_

  7. #57
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Suggest a 400 film

    Quote Originally Posted by Gerald C Koch View Post
    First let me say that the following is NOT a political statement. But I challange the logical fallacy that Kodak is in some way responsible for the problems of the world and boycotting them will solve the west's problems. To be very polite your argument is simplistic in the extreme.

    If someone has a problem with the British government should they stop buying Ilford film? You are equating an economic entity with a political one. Like comparing apples and oranges.
    I would liken his comment to china as that fits better as a communist country who's regime is cruel to its own people, they should be boycotted before the USA. I'd like to see how photographers would react if you told them to stop using all the gear and film made in china... There wouldn't be much shooting going on...


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  8. #58

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Looks like the OP is going ilford HP5+ so let's see what he thinks after his test :
    I will try to remember this thread when i have done some tests, but it will probably take some weeks. I will try Hp5+.


    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
    The key is not to jump to quick conclusions when trying a new film. Spend some time with it and the developer (Rodinal in this case) to figure out how best to expose and develop (different times, dilutions, agitation etc) for one's purposes and taste. And make prints to evaluate. You can't shoot two rolls of film and decide it's good or no good.
    Yes, that is very true.

    BTW. I do print in darkroom using Foma papers in MC-Dev (yet another old Agfa product coming to life again), it is quite rare that i scan my films today. For iso100 i have come to like Foma 100, i like the results that i get from that film souped in Rodinal at 7½min. Rodinal has become my favourite developer since i got my hands on a 15 year old bottle of true Rodinal made by Agfa (though i have made some home brewing PC-glycol experiments). The contents of the old bottle was dark as CocaCola, but it still worked just fine. Later i bought a new bottle of R09 made by Compard AG that is supposed to be made on the same recipe. I could use the same dev-times for both! This was 3 years ago, i still have that old bottle of original Rodinal and it did still work two months ago. This extreme shelf life is perfect for me since my BW work is quite sporadic, with Rodinal i never have to worry about the freshness of the developer. Earlier i used Xtol, but i have had to pour out liters of that when it got old and i did not dare to use it. Also i happen to like the tonality i get from Rodinal and i do not mind grain.

    This thing about grain is something that i feel have changed lately. Back in the analog days people wanted fine grain-developers, especially for small format film. The analog days had its kind of "pixel-peeping" too. Today most people shoot digital when they want clean images, if not the kind of digital shooters that even add artificial grain.. Today the reason to use BW film is more often based other reasons. Grain is even wanted sometimes, grain has become some sort of a statement in printed BW pictures.

  9. #59

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    Just tried my first Hp5+ in Rodinal and i am happy.

    While i waited for delivery i searched for examples and dev. times. I have so far mostly used a dilution of 1:50 for my films, but neither Agfa or Ilford recommend that dilution for some reason, some say it wont build contrast enough. Their recommendations for EI 400 in 1:25 dilution also differ, Ilford says 6 min and Agfa 8 min. I tend to like a bit contrast, so i developed this first film for 8 min in 1:25 dilution. 30 sec initial agitation and then two turns every minute.

    The film came out OK, initially the neg looked a bit dense, but that was only me fooling my self since i developed my last roll of Foma 400 just earlier in 1:50 for 12 min (EI 320). I did take some shots of the same scene, just for comparison. Hp5+ is a faster film than Foma 400, no question about it, more than a stop faster, maybe even closing in on two. Grain? Yes, ohh yes. The grain is about the same for those two films, pronounced but in a pleasing way. Hp5+ is quite a bit sharper and i also liked the tonality of Hp5+ better than the Foma. It seem like Hp5+ has a more defined and so to speak compressed toe in the density curve, there is more in both the deep shadows and even more so in the highlights compared to Foma.

    I also did under and over expose a scene by one stop. The Hp5+ do not seem to like over-exposure, that +1 shot lost a lot of contrast and did not look good. I got quite surprised of the under-exposed shot, it hardly even looked under-exposed, midtones where just about the same, just a tad darker on the contact sheet over all. At a quick glance it looked about the same as the correct exposure, at second look it had a bit contrast to it. Initially i even liked the one stop under-exposed shot better. It seem like Hp5+ is quite forgiving regarding under-exposure. To me this says it will respond well to pushing.

    I tried to print a couple of frames on grade 2, 9x6" paper. The prints came out very good, maybe a tad low in contrast. Actually much better than i had expected for a first test-roll. I think Hp5+ will become my 400 film of choice, this first roll was very promising.

  10. #60
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Suggest a 400 film

    Quote Originally Posted by steelneck View Post
    Just tried my first Hp5+ in Rodinal and i am happy.

    While i waited for delivery i searched for examples and dev. times. I have so far mostly used a dilution of 1:50 for my films, but neither Agfa or Ilford recommend that dilution for some reason, some say it wont build contrast enough. Their recommendations for EI 400 in 1:25 dilution also differ, Ilford says 6 min and Agfa 8 min. I tend to like a bit contrast, so i developed this first film for 8 min in 1:25 dilution. 30 sec initial agitation and then two turns every minute.

    The film came out OK, initially the neg looked a bit dense, but that was only me fooling my self since i developed my last roll of Foma 400 just earlier in 1:50 for 12 min (EI 320). I did take some shots of the same scene, just for comparison. Hp5+ is a faster film than Foma 400, no question about it, more than a stop faster, maybe even closing in on two. Grain? Yes, ohh yes. The grain is about the same for those two films, pronounced but in a pleasing way. Hp5+ is quite a bit sharper and i also liked the tonality of Hp5+ better than the Foma. It seem like Hp5+ has a more defined and so to speak compressed toe in the density curve, there is more in both the deep shadows and even more so in the highlights compared to Foma.

    I also did under and over expose a scene by one stop. The Hp5+ do not seem to like over-exposure, that +1 shot lost a lot of contrast and did not look good. I got quite surprised of the under-exposed shot, it hardly even looked under-exposed, midtones where just about the same, just a tad darker on the contact sheet over all. At a quick glance it looked about the same as the correct exposure, at second look it had a bit contrast to it. Initially i even liked the one stop under-exposed shot better. It seem like Hp5+ is quite forgiving regarding under-exposure. To me this says it will respond well to pushing.

    I tried to print a couple of frames on grade 2, 9x6" paper. The prints came out very good, maybe a tad low in contrast. Actually much better than i had expected for a first test-roll. I think Hp5+ will become my 400 film of choice, this first roll was very promising.
    YAY!!

    I tend to use Rodinal 1:50 for all my Rodinal development, seems fine for HP5+ but then I've never tried 1:25 maybe I'll try that to compare


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

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