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  1. #11
    kchoquette's Avatar
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    Interesting! I've been lead to believe that D76 yields the clearest negatives, which is pretty important to me. As for HC-110, from what I can see off of Flickr, people seem to be getting the clearest results with dilution B. Apart from the concentration amount, I can't figure out what it is that makes it so clear sometimes and then other times, it's grain all over the place! And don't even get me started on the Tri-X curl, it's almost cruel!

    As for this current roll of HP5+ I have, what would be the best way--using Rodinal in order to get a less grainy negative? Loss of contrast is fine, as that's nothing Photoshop can't fix up in half a second.

  2. #12
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kchoquette View Post
    Interesting! I've been lead to believe that D76 yields the clearest negatives, which is pretty important to me. As for HC-110, from what I can see off of Flickr, people seem to be getting the clearest results with dilution B. Apart from the concentration amount, I can't figure out what it is that makes it so clear sometimes and then other times, it's grain all over the place!
    Likely how the film was exposed, and also the time in developer.
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
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  3. #13

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    I was under the impression that stand developing might yield some better results in regards to tightening up some grain--which is actually my primary concern, moreso than contrast. Let me clarify by saying that there is MUCH more grain in my HP5+ negatives than my Tri-X.
    Mr. Koch is right about dilution and contrast. My experience is HP-5 initially looks sharper as the grain is more prominent than Tri-X. Even enlarging D-76 developed -135 negs to 8x enlargement factor HP-5 grain intrudes if using a condenser enlarger. So type film is a factor.

    But your question is how to reduce Rodinal enhanced HP-5 grain with the end use a scan. Avoid overdevelopment/overexposure. Develop at 1:50 ratio and shoot near the -135 film box speed. Use a tripod vs increasing the EI. If you want a Ralph Gibson look someone in APUG may post his technique and type materials.
    Last edited by Richard Jepsen; 02-24-2013 at 08:30 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    RJ

  4. #14
    kchoquette's Avatar
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    Thanks so much, everyone. I really appreciate all the help. I would certainly lean towards developing in D76, if I shot often enough to make use of the solution--which is why I think one-shot and liquid type developers are best for my purposes.

    I've ordered some HC-110 as I've seen a lot of results on Flickr that I absolutely love using it. The below is a perfect example of the exact range and tone I would love to achieve from my Tri-X or any b/w shots.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/carstenbeier/7434338396/

    Now all I have to do is figure out a way to get rid of the absolutely HORRIBLE curl I get from my Tri-X negatives! Maybe I'll check out Neopan 400 in the future.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by kchoquette View Post
    Thanks so much, everyone. I really appreciate all the help. I would certainly lean towards developing in D76, if I shot often enough to make use of the solution--which is why I think one-shot and liquid type developers are best for my purposes.

    I've ordered some HC-110 as I've seen a lot of results on Flickr that I absolutely love using it. The below is a perfect example of the exact range and tone I would love to achieve from my Tri-X or any b/w shots.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/carstenbeier/7434338396/

    Now all I have to do is figure out a way to get rid of the absolutely HORRIBLE curl I get from my Tri-X negatives! Maybe I'll check out Neopan 400 in the future.
    Stick with D76, use 1:1 and discard, also forget stand development.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  6. #16
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Stand development times for HP5+ in Rodinal?

    Quote Originally Posted by kchoquette View Post
    Thanks so much, everyone. I really appreciate all the help. I would certainly lean towards developing in D76, if I shot often enough to make use of the solution--which is why I think one-shot and liquid type developers are best for my purposes.

    I've ordered some HC-110 as I've seen a lot of results on Flickr that I absolutely love using it. The below is a perfect example of the exact range and tone I would love to achieve from my Tri-X or any b/w shots.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/carstenbeier/7434338396/
    Those are some seriously blow out highlights and blocked up shadows if you ask me...
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  7. #17
    kchoquette's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich815 View Post
    Those are some seriously blow out highlights and blocked up shadows if you ask me...
    I totally agree about the shadow detail being way too extreme. The contrast is definitely a little on the strong end, but I'd be damned if it wasn't achieved in post. I'm not going for as strong of a contrast but the lack of grain here is definitely something I've yet to get out of my own negatives.

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