T-Max 100 at 320 development times?
I shot a roll of T-Max 100 at 320, mistakenly thinking that it was Tri-X. I can't seem to find any information regarding this.
So, I'd like to know if anyone has any experience developing T-Max pushed to 320 ( I do not ). I'd prefer to use either Pyrocat HD, Rodinal or Finol, as those are the developers that I use most frequently ( and have on hand at the moment ). Any assistance is appreciated.
Well, according to Kodak, TMax 100 can be shot at 100 or 200 without needing to change the development time (weird).
So, around 1/2 stop from that again.....(probably would have counted it as 1 stop myself and added 25% from ISO 100 times, as I don't really believe in the above mentioned statement).
With Ethol, I see that someone had added 50% to the 100 ISO time to get to 320:
Not sure if this helps, hope you can figure it out ^^
Last edited by Helinophoto; 02-25-2013 at 12:51 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I have pushed TMX to 400 using Xtol 1+1. Works great.
With Rodinal, I'd use it dilute, like 1+75 or 1+100. Develop a long time, agitate 10 seconds every three minutes.
A decent starting time for 1+100 would be 30 minutes.
"Make good art!"
- Neil Gaiman
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera".
- Yousuf Karsh
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit".
Actually, not weird at all.
Originally Posted by Helinophoto
"Pushing" doesn't significantly change the film's sensitivity, it just increases contrast.
So while a a push development may improve the contrast in the near shadows (where underexposure will cause low contrast), it will also increase contrast in the highlights, which may very well be detrimental to the image.
So Kodak is saying that the improvement you will gain in the shadows from a one stop push isn't worth the loss of quality in the highlights you will experience.
Last edited by MattKing; 02-25-2013 at 03:40 PM. Click to view previous post history.
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
None of those developers would be very good for "pushing" Tmax 100. Can you get a hold of any D-76 or HC-110? Times and temps for both of those with Tmax 100 at 400 can be found here:
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I'll second Thomas's XTOL suggestion but I'd dilute it 1+3 and reduce agitation (although this actually doesn't appear to help much with tabular films).
Thanks. X-Tol is one developer that I've always wanted to try out, but never did. I actually do have a bag of it that I bought about a year ago, but obviously never got around to mixing up.
Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson
I do have a bottle of HC-110 lying about. It's a couple of years old, but I'm sure that it's fine. I never really got on with it, so I forgot all about it! I guess I'll go with that, since I'd rather travel the path of least resistance ( or at least the path of the tried and true... ).
Do a clip-test first, just to be sure it hasn't died on you (I hear it can die in the bag).
Originally Posted by jpa
You don't mention how you meter. If you placed the deep shadows on zone IV or V then you should be OK. If you placed them on zone I or II then there will not be any useful exposure of the film in those areas. You need 4 or more silver atoms in your speck to be developable.