Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,840   Posts: 1,582,476   Online: 820
      
Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 53
  1. #31

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The End of the World
    Shooter
    Sub 35mm
    Posts
    242
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Oxleyroad View Post
    I use D19 predominantly with added thiocyanate (or not depending).
    oxleyroad. Interesting. Do you have any information on exact method, please? Just in case I end up doing a u-turn on Dektol.
    Last edited by mr.datsun; 02-26-2013 at 04:01 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #32

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The End of the World
    Shooter
    Sub 35mm
    Posts
    242
    Images
    1
    I forgot that I found this last week. Tri-X Super 8 with Dektol at 1+2 for 5 minutes. Result on the page. Yellow but high contrast.

    30g(!) of anhydrous hypo in 600ml dev.

    http://www.repaire.net/forums/film-a...-x-dektol.html

    j' ai utliser le dektol comme ça : Dektol 200ml : eau 400ml + 30g de Sodium Sulfite anhydre

    dévellopement 5 min à 20°c
    rincage 2 min
    blanchiment 1min 30 (Solution A : 500ml eau, 32 ml Acide sulfurique Solution B : 500ml eau, 1,5g permanganate de potasse)
    rincage 1 min
    clarification 2min (105g of Sodium Sulfite pour 1l eau)
    rincage 2 min
    Expositon à 100 watt 2 min
    2 ème dévellopement 5 min à 20°c
    Rincage 1 min
    Fixateur 2 min (1+8 superfix plus Tetenal)
    Rincage 2 min
    Bain eau distillée 2 min
    Last edited by mr.datsun; 02-26-2013 at 03:56 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #33

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The End of the World
    Shooter
    Sub 35mm
    Posts
    242
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by georgegrosu View Post
    Another picture taken with Kodak Double X exposed to 800.
    http://imageshack.us/f/17/negxxreversibilanredus.gif/

    George
    George, what process are you using, please?

  4. #34

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Southern USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,128
    Polymax (Dektol liquid) is a different formula from the standard Dektol print developer. My suggestion was for the regular, powdered Dektol. Alternatively you should be able buy Kodak D-19.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  5. #35
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    23,530
    Images
    65
    Having experimented in this area (my own Liquidol), I can say that Jerry is right. Polymax is a TOTALLY different developer formulation right from the ground up. Many formulas can give the same cold tones and rapid development, but they may not be the same with film. BTDT. Liquidol with film goes one way, and Dektol with film goes the other.

    PE

  6. #36
    Oxleyroad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Hawthorn Oz, then MI USA from March 14, 2015!
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    815
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    7
    Mr Datsun,

    Now having read through all of this thread. A couple of things I have learnt. As johnielvis eludes, invest early and save in ther future.

    I started with my B&W reversal using the Ilford data sheet and the old Ilford Manual back in 2007. Had no success at all. The emulsion lifted from the substrait(? spelling) an all of the films I tried such Ilford FP4, HP5, Foma 400 action, all in 35mm and 120. Cost a bit in film.

    When the last motion picture lab in the southern hemiphere that processed B&W reversal closed in 2009, I resolved that I would learn to process B&W reversal myself.

    Yes there is a lot of conflicting information out there and here on APUG.

    I have been confident with processing B&W reversal for about a year now, but not before I had tried many, many different developer, time, temp and film combinations. I still do try new ones every so often. I have kept a log of everything so I now have a starting point for something new. Ihave tried much of what I have read. Some methods work for me, others did not. I use filtered tank water for everything in the darkroom.

    My predominant films are Shanghai GP3 (120), Ilford HP4, HP5 and 3200 (35 and 120), Foma 100 and 400 (35, 120 & 4x5) Kodak Trix Rev (16), Foma R100 (16 and 35), Kodak Vision 2 and 3 colour neg (16 and 35), ORWO UN54 & N74 and ADOX Silvermax (35).

    Developers I have had success with (I measure success as having a projectionable image that I would be proud to show, but the audience might not like) Kodak Dektol & D19 powders. Tetenal Dokumol and Eukobrom. Ilford PQ universal. I have also mixed several developers such as D94 from various sources. All have been tried with and without Hypo, and sodium thiocyanate. I want to try potassium thiocyanate in due course. Sometimes I use Hypo or thiocyanate sometimes I do not.

    Bleaches I use only 1. Potassium Dichromate, simply because I just could not get the permanganate bleach to work. To not soften the emulsion too much so as to allow it to become easily damaged. I was able to get the permanganate bleach to work at 14°C. But as I figured I was doing something wrong, and I could switch to dichromate, I did. I have never looked back.

    In my testing I shot several rolls of a particular film bracketed -2,-1,0,1,2 for the whole length. 120 a killer because I only got 3 test strips. I did not sub one format of film for another initally, but I do now as a starting point. I do always run a test strip before I run the actual roll of film, call it being paranoid, but nothing worse that to ruin a 100' roll of movie film because of something that could be prevented.

    When you find something that works stick with it, but do not expect what works exactly for the Tri-X 35mm will be the same for the Tri-X Reversal super 8. I have different times for ORWO 35mm and ORWO 16mm, not much but enough.

    Be persistant, patient and meticulous. What works in my environment may not work for you, and same for you.


    As for the question what are my D19 details, I am work right now, but will note them for you later today when I get home.
    Cheers - Andy C
    ---------------------

    16mm Cine, 35mm, 120, 5x4 & 7x5.

  7. #37

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The End of the World
    Shooter
    Sub 35mm
    Posts
    242
    Images
    1
    Gerald C Koch & PE. I'm gobsmacked. That might explain a lot. Thank-you.

    As I have to start again, should I just go for the known high-contrast D19 or get the genuine Dektol ?



    Kodak on their Cinema and TV site on D19:
    'Provides higher than normal contrast and speed, higher than average graininess. High capacity, clean working, fast acting.

    Seems to me the D19. I read 6-7mins and assume use stock strength.

  8. #38

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The End of the World
    Shooter
    Sub 35mm
    Posts
    242
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Oxleyroad View Post
    Mr Datsun,

    Now having read through all of this thread. A couple of things I have learnt. As johnielvis eludes, invest early and save in ther future.

    ....

    Be persistant, patient and meticulous. What works in my environment may not work for you, and same for you.


    As for the question what are my D19 details, I am work right now, but will note them for you later today when I get home.
    Oxleyroad,

    Thank-you for your story. It's heartening to read.

    Also thank-you for the advice and I completely agree about being methodical, meticulous and persistant – really, I have aimed to be so. Adjusting one variable at a time, gaining a success and then moving on to adjustment the next variable etc. But then I think that there's one thing that no amount of method or persistence would have helped with. A knowledge gap - using a wrong developer. Of course, eventually through much experimentation it may have become clear that it was wrong...

    But there's sometimes another way. Something like natura facit saltus. A leap. A shortcut. Someone helpful who has the experience or knowledge puts you on a path that holds far stronger chance of experimental success – once method is re-applied. And a feeling of confidence (even a return of faith) comes with it.

    So to hear that Kodak's 'liquid Dektol' is not Dektol is one such leap that will save me a lot of experimental fumbling in the dark. Likewise hearing about your successes with particular developers.

    An idea of your methods with powdered Dektol and D19 would be very helpful and I'd be very grateful.

    And so I will be moving directly to Super 8 tests next, having tonight finished building an 8mm reel for my Nikkor tank for use with short test film strips.

    Regards

    Mr. Datsun

  9. #39
    Oxleyroad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Hawthorn Oz, then MI USA from March 14, 2015!
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    815
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    7
    Mr Datsun,

    My times below are for D19 without any hypo or thiocyanate. Mixed from powder to make stock solution.

    Adox Silvermax:- D19 diluted 1:1 at 25degC 4mins, all other chem baths 60-120 secs, fixer 3mins.
    FomaR100 & ORWO UN54:- D19 diluted 1:2 at 22degC 6mins, all other chem baths 60-120secs, fixer 3mins.

    Now for Dektol stock solution mixed from powder. No hypo or thiocyanate.

    FomaR100:- Dektol diluted 1:1 at 22degC 3mins, all other chem baths 60-120 secs, fixer 3mins.
    ORWO UN54:- Dektol diluted 1:1 at 22degC 2mins, all other chem baths 60-120 secs, fixer 3mins

    First developer, bleach and clearing bath all had const. agitation.


    Commenting on your test strip. I'd shorten the first development a tad, making the blacks darker, the clear areas should still be clear.
    Cheers - Andy C
    ---------------------

    16mm Cine, 35mm, 120, 5x4 & 7x5.

  10. #40

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The End of the World
    Shooter
    Sub 35mm
    Posts
    242
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Oxleyroad View Post
    My times below are for D19 without any hypo or thiocyanate. Mixed from powder to make stock solution.

    Adox Silvermax:- D19 diluted 1:1 at 25degC 4mins, all other chem baths 60-120 secs, fixer 3mins.
    FomaR100 & ORWO UN54:- D19 diluted 1:2 at 22degC 6mins, all other chem baths 60-120secs, fixer 3mins.

    Now for Dektol stock solution mixed from powder. No hypo or thiocyanate.

    FomaR100:- Dektol diluted 1:1 at 22degC 3mins, all other chem baths 60-120 secs, fixer 3mins.
    ORWO UN54:- Dektol diluted 1:1 at 22degC 2mins, all other chem baths 60-120 secs, fixer 3mins

    First developer, bleach and clearing bath all had const. agitation.


    Commenting on your test strip. I'd shorten the first development a tad, making the blacks darker, the clear areas should still be clear.
    Andy, thank-you - that's really a great help. I'm deciding which to use – D19 or Dektol powder. If D19 and Dektol are used at the same stock + 1 or +2 dilution then that certainly makes them fairly equal in terms of costs (which will be a minor factor – with the qty's used for cinefilm). But do you have an opinion on the relative image qualities of each, please?

    Is there a reason why you work at 22 or 25degC? I'm more used to working at 20deg but could change if it had benefits other than convenience.

    Regards

    mr. datsun
    Last edited by mr.datsun; 02-27-2013 at 08:42 AM. Click to view previous post history.

Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin