Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,000   Posts: 1,524,344   Online: 775
      
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 38
  1. #11
    StoneNYC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    7,046
    Images
    223

    Question: Tips on how to use Ilford FP4+ roll film.

    If you don't care about film speed AT ALL then go with PanF+ if you do, I would try out HP5+ as a match. I know you said you don't care much about film speed, but it will be a big adjustment. Going from 400 to 125 in speed.

    I would first suggest trying 1 roll of all 3, shoot the same exact scene with all three, and over and under expose and stick with your standard developer for now....

    On a side note, I LOVE Ilfsol 3 and DD-X they are both amazing... Ilfsol 3 for PanF+ and FP4+, and DD-X for HP5+ and the Delta line.

    However they are really very expensive in comparison to Rodinal. I STILL haven't found a comparable developer to Ilfsol 3 with longer storage and more capacity... But I would say after you decide on a film with your current Dev, that you give Ilfsol 3 a try.


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,957
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    I STILL haven't found a comparable developer to Ilfsol 3 with longer storage and more capacity...
    They used to make (might still... I haven't tried to buy any for ages) one called LC29 which I found to be better then Ilfosol (not 3, earlier versions). Standard dilutions of 1:29 and 1:19 (depending on film) so pretty economical. End results seemed comparable but life of an opened container was vastly superior. Ilfosol used to go off very quickly once opened, no idea if 3 is better.

  3. #13
    brian steinberger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    2,328
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    100
    I can recommend FP4 highly. It's a great film. I also love the RF645 and shoot FP4 in bright conditions at EI 64 and develop 10 min in ID-11 1:1. In overcast conditions try EI 100 or 125 and develop for 13 min 1:1.

  4. #14
    StoneNYC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    7,046
    Images
    223

    Question: Tips on how to use Ilford FP4+ roll film.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nige View Post
    They used to make (might still... I haven't tried to buy any for ages) one called LC29 which I found to be better then Ilfosol (not 3, earlier versions). Standard dilutions of 1:29 and 1:19 (depending on film) so pretty economical. End results seemed comparable but life of an opened container was vastly superior. Ilfosol used to go off very quickly once opened, no idea if 3 is better.
    Thanks, I'll give it a try.


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  5. #15
    Jim Taylor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    West Yorkshire, UK
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by kevs View Post
    You probably mean FP4+; HP4 is an older film and any stock will be decades out of date. If you want a film to match the speed of Tri-X, HP5+ is a good choice.

    First I recommend that you read Ilford's spiel here: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/...26+White+Films

    I use mainly FP4+ and I can tell you that I get excellent results from it; it's very forgiving of exposure errors, especially overexposure. It's versatile and can be pushed to 400 ASA, or possibly higher. I find my exposures, metered with a hand-held Lunasix and exposed in my SQ-B and Yashica 124-G, and 35mm SLR, to be spot-on the 125 ASA / 22 DIN rated by Ilford - these guys make the film, they know what they're talking about! I don't faff around with 'personal film speed testing' - I'd rather take pictures! If exposed properly (meter and expose for shadows - film's exposure latitude is mostly in the area of over-exposure) the film can record a full range of shadow and highlight detail.

    I develop exclusively in Ilford ID-11, which gives fine grain and excellent sharpness. Unless you're printing billboards or photographing black cats in coal cellars I don't think you'll be disappointed by FP4+. I cannot comment on HP5+ since I haven't used it for a few years.

    Cheers,
    kevs
    I've got to agree with all of this. Being a relative youngster, I cut my teeth on FP4+ and love it! Like Kevs, I use it at box speed in both 35mm and 120 format. Really forgiving, can be pushed, pulled, played around with and has nice, fine grain etc. etc.

    I also develop this film exclusively in ID-11 @ 1:1 - I feel to get slighly high acutance, but that's a "by-eye" estimate, nothing sensiometric!
    Cheers,

    Jim.

  6. #16
    TheToadMen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Netherlands, Europe
    Shooter
    Pinhole
    Posts
    1,193
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    22
    There is a big photography market on Sunday in Holland with a lot of shops and 2nd hand dealers.
    I'm gonna try to score some ID-11 and LC29 developer and some extra Ilford FP4+ film (35 mm en 120 roll film) to do some testing.
    And maybe score some other nice goodies :-)
    There are always nice deals to find on old equipment (high end + low end), films, books, etc.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  7. #17
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    NH - Live Free or Die
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,674
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    Hi guys,
    Sorry for my typo. I did mean Ilford Fp4+ (not HP4+):
    Attachment 65090
    I got the name mixed up wit HP5+. Sorry. It seems I cant edit the original post and title (??).
    I don't have a need to match up the ISO 400 of Tri-X. Fp4+ can be easily pushed to ISO 400 if needed. And it was my (uneducated) conclusion - based on many discussions and shown images - that I like the tonal range and contrast of FP4+ better than of HP5+. (Now, don't start a war here, mind you!!).
    I had to start somewhere, so I decided to try FP4+ first. So my original question should have been how do you use your Ilford FP4+ and how do you develop?

    There are two suggestions for Ilford ID-11 so far. I never used this developer. I started with Kodak D-76, but didn't like to work with powder. I switched to liquid Amaloco chemicals and had good results. Later I also tried Kodak T-MAX developer and Rodinal developer but haven't used it enough to have an opinion yet.
    Amaloco AM 74 is a local product (Holland, Europe) as a replacement for Agfa Rodinal.
    The paper developers from Amaloco are:
    - Agfa Neutol NE = Amaloco AM 2002 Extra Bromax
    - Agfa Neutol WA = Amaloco AM 1001
    - Agfa Multicontrast = Amaloco AM 2002 Extra Bromax
    - Agfa Neutol Plus = Amaloco AM 8008 Ecomax.
    I would test extensively before assuming FP4 can be pushed to 400. I haven't seen that ever work well. Shoot HP5 when you need a faster film.

    i shoot FP4 at 64 and develop in XTOL 1+1 or Pyrocat HD and get excellent results. Both require mixing, so they are possibly not for you, but I think the hassle is worth it.

  8. #18

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    197
    FP4+ is my favourite film so far, i shoot 35mm. Box speed and developed in ID11 1+1 with a minute thrown on (13 minutes for a bit extra shadow detail) at 20C, gives me outstanding results and with good glass every hair on someone's arm could be made out at 12x16 size. Texture is lovely, the grain is barely visible but gives a nice texture. Go any bigger you will find that the fine details start to 'break up' at least in my experience. But up to 12x16 it is great in 35mm, but as you are using roll film you have much more leeway! Tonality is stunning. Enjoy!!!! I like HP5 for some portraits at 800 if i want more 'texture' or speed, but otherwise, FP4+ all the way. Never really been a Tri-X fan but that just me. I always get FP4+ in bricks.

    FP4+ is bullet proof. I use it with a flash in poor lighting for casual photography and because of its insane latitude, it will NOT destroy highlights even if your F stop is quite a bit off, my cameras sync the flash with 1/100 on my pentax body 1/125 on my miranda body. which amazed me when i discovered that it retained highlights under extreme over-exposure, even with the extra minute of development. so for indoor flash photography it is great as well, it preserves the tonality that alot of flash photography ruins. Accidently shot a frame with a flash with my lens wide open at F1.7. A very dense negative, but the highlights were intact, and it was at like 5ft. distance. Now that is latitude! It even printed well at grade 2, but i sometimes like to print at grade 3 if i fancy a contrast boost with it. And even for experienced users, FP4+ is a great film. Its dynamic range is stunning. I do find it likes the development temperature not to fluctuate too much.

    PAN F+ in my experience will annihilate you if you mess up the exposure! And i find the need to maintain developer temperature at 20C as much as E6/C41 has to be maintained at 38.
    Last edited by jm94; 03-09-2013 at 08:34 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #19
    TheToadMen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Netherlands, Europe
    Shooter
    Pinhole
    Posts
    1,193
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by L Gebhardt View Post
    I shoot FP4 at 64 and develop in XTOL 1+1 or Pyrocat HD and get excellent results. Both require mixing, so they are possibly not for you, but I think the hassle is worth it.
    Hi Gebhardt,
    I have heard about Pyrocat several times, but never seen or used it. Could you tell me about it? Some people are very enthusiastic about it. Do you buy & mix the ingredients yourself or do you get it as a kit?
    Pyrocat is an other thing on my (long) list of "things still to do".
    And if you have had good results with Pyrocat and Fp4+, why not try this myself?
    (Mixing won't be a hassle for me)
    Last edited by TheToadMen; 03-09-2013 at 10:03 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  10. #20
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    NH - Live Free or Die
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,674
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    Hi Gebhardt,
    I have heard about Pyrocat several times, but never seen or used it. Could you tell me about it? Some people are very enthusiastic about it. Do you buy & mix the ingredients yourself or do you get it as a kit?
    Pyrocat is an other thing on my (long) list of "things still to do".
    And if you have had good results with Pyrocat and Fp4+, why not try this myself?
    (Mixing won't be a hassle for me)
    I mix Pyrocat HD myself, but you can buy it from the Photographers Formulary either as a powder kit or mixed as liquids. The advantage that it has is it's a staining developer. This means part of the image is made up of stained gelatin along with the rest being silver grains. Because there is less silver grain you get smoother, less grainy, images. Probably best to try it out for yourself to see if it works well for you.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin