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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by L Gebhardt View Post
    I mix Pyrocat HD myself, but you can buy it from the Photographers Formulary either as a powder kit or mixed as liquids. The advantage that it has is it's a staining developer. This means part of the image is made up of stained gelatin along with the rest being silver grains. Because there is less silver grain you get smoother, less grainy, images. Probably best to try it out for yourself to see if it works well for you.
    So, in theory, could you add the staining chemistry to something like Rodinal to get a finer grain image with a Rodinal look?

  2. #22
    kintatsu's Avatar
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    I use FP4+ and develop in either HC-110 dil h, Tetenal ultrafin 1+20, or Ultrafin Plus 1+9. With all three chemicals the results are quite nice, and given the versatility and shelf life of Ultrafin Plus, worth the effort. 1 liter of Ultrafin plus 1+9 will do 12 rolls, or 48 sheets of 4x5. I use it until about 8 rolls or 32 sheets. At 1+9, I get 11 liters working per liter concentrate. My times for developing were running 12-13 minutes.

    The Ultrafin Plus is one of the best.

  3. #23
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    I went to a kind of Photography Convention today and got me some Ilford FP4+: 10x 120 roll ($50.00) film and 3x 135 film ($14.00). I also bought a bottle of Ilford Ilfotec LC29 and Ilford Ilfosol 3. Unfortunately there wasn't any other developer available. I would have liked to get me some Pyrocat-HD or MC to test also ....

    I'll expose one 135 film with my Leica M7 and 35 mm Summicron lens, making 36 exact the same images (subject, exposure & diaphragm). I'll cut the film into pieces and will develop it in my 4 different developers.
    The new Ilfosol 3 and LC29. And I still have an unopened bottle of Rodinal lying around and should have a box of Id-11 (powder) that I never tried before.
    I think I'll rate the film at ISO 125 use the times mentioned on Digital Truth to start with. See:
    http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart...er=&mdc=Search

    It was a pitty there wasn't a photo chemic sales man at the convention today (there used to be someone from Germany with a lot of film, photo paper and chemistry). I'll need to get me some STOP and FIX as well for this testing and wanted to find me some Pyrocat. Maybe I'll get on the internet and find me a nice webshop for these chemicals in Europe.

    Now that I think of it: I'll expose all three of the 135 films for this experiment at the same time, so I can use other developers as well on the same film later and compare the results.
    To be continued .......

    BTW: testing tips are welcome
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    I went to a kind of Photography Convention today and got me some Ilford FP4+: 10x 120 roll ($50.00) film and 3x 135 film ($14.00). I also bought a bottle of Ilford Ilfotec LC29 and Ilford Ilfosol 3. Unfortunately there wasn't any other developer available. I would have liked to get me some Pyrocat-HD or MC to test also ....

    I'll expose one 135 film with my Leica M7 and 35 mm Summicron lens, making 36 exact the same images (subject, exposure & diaphragm). I'll cut the film into pieces and will develop it in my 4 different developers.
    The new Ilfosol 3 and LC29. And I still have an unopened bottle of Rodinal lying around and should have a box of Id-11 (powder) that I never tried before.
    I think I'll rate the film at ISO 125 use the times mentioned on Digital Truth to start with. See:
    http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart...er=&mdc=Search

    It was a pitty there wasn't a photo chemic sales man at the convention today (there used to be someone from Germany with a lot of film, photo paper and chemistry). I'll need to get me some STOP and FIX as well for this testing and wanted to find me some Pyrocat. Maybe I'll get on the internet and find me a nice webshop for these chemicals in Europe.

    Now that I think of it: I'll expose all three of the 135 films for this experiment at the same time, so I can use other developers as well on the same film later and compare the results.
    To be continued .......

    BTW: testing tips are welcome
    I would love to see and hear your opinion on the comparison of Rodinal to LC29. I've been told LC29 is like a finer grained version of Rodinal and lasts a long time like Rodinal, but I've never picked up a bottle, I've meant to but it seems less discussed so I wanted to try the more popular ones first. Anyway any reports on those two would be surely welcome!

    I can say I love Ilfsol 3, however economically it's not financially viable as you use a LOT up, but I have re-used it up to 6 times and just added 30 seconds per additional roll and been able to develop more, but it's TECHNICALLY a one shot, so I'm not sure my method is recommended just something I tried once and kept pushing the limit when testing it.

    Anyway enjoy your testing

  5. #25

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    ID-11 would be a useful test as it would give you a benchmark against which to compare other developers. In general, however, you can't realistically "test" anything with one roll, or a piece of a roll, and expect to come to any meaningful conclusions.

  6. #26
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    I would love to see and hear your opinion on the comparison of Rodinal to LC29. I've been told LC29 is like a finer grained version of Rodinal and lasts a long time like Rodinal, but I've never picked up a bottle, I've meant to but it seems less discussed so I wanted to try the more popular ones first. Anyway any reports on those two would be surely welcome
    Hi Stone,
    It may take some time, but I'll post the results in the end.

    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen
    I'll need to get me some STOP and FIX as well for this testing and wanted to find me some Pyrocat. Maybe I'll get on the internet and find me a nice webshop for these chemicals in Europe.
    I just ordered Ilford RAPID FIXER (non hardening) and Ilford ILFOTOL (wetting agent) through www.macodirect.de (in Germany) fo the FP4Plus film.

    I also ordered MACO GENIUS film 17,8x24,0 (= cm, not inches) 120 sheets for $100 and Rollei Infrared 400S sheet film (4x5") 50 sheets for $60. I also ordered Maco Ecoprint, Ecostop and Ecofix to develop the Maco film. I never used these films but would like to experiment with it. I still have an old Russian FKD 18x24 cm camera (almost 7x10 inch) with wooden sheet film holders and my hat as a shutter.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    If the Maco film works out fine, I'm gonna use these negatives for Bromoil printing, Salt printing and Gum printing.

    I also ordered Fotospeed Selenium Toner (an other experiment). I'm told it works well on the Maco film. This Maco should behave like photo paper.
    It's gonna be an interesting summer this year ;-)
    Last edited by TheToadMen; 03-10-2013 at 05:01 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
    ID-11 would be a useful test as it would give you a benchmark against which to compare other developers. In general, however, you can't realistically "test" anything with one roll, or a piece of a roll, and expect to come to any meaningful conclusions.
    You're quite right! That's why I also bought 10 rolls of 120 film to use with my Bronica SQ-B and Bronica RF all summer.
    But the first tests will be with the three 135 mm film to get started....

    Why is ID-11 a benchmark?
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  8. #28

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    It is the same as Kodak D-76, which has been a benchmark for developing film forever. It is the developer most often used by the manufacturers to test films, and gives a good balance of speed, grain and sharpness.

    See Ilford's publication on FP4+ and recommended developers for best overall image quality:

    http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/...2125850702.pdf

    And here is an additional publication from Ilford with broad comparisons of developer characteristics (see page 3):

    http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/201142713062331.pdf

  9. #29
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    So, in theory, could you add the staining chemistry to something like Rodinal to get a finer grain image with a Rodinal look?
    I'm not a chemist, but I imagine you could combine catechol with Rodinal. No idea what the results would be like. Let us know when you try it

  10. #30
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Pyrocat-P

    Quote Originally Posted by L Gebhardt View Post
    I'm not a chemist, but I imagine you could combine catechol with Rodinal. No idea what the results would be like. Let us know when you try it
    Sandy King published a version of Pyrocat with p-Aminophenol which is the developing agent used in Rodinal.


    Pyrocat-P

    Stock A
    Distilled Water at 120ºF 750ml
    Sodium Metabisulfite 10.0g
    p-Aminophenol 5.0g
    Pyrocatechin 50g
    Potassium Iodide 1.0g

    Water to 1000ml


    In practice Pyrocat HD is like Rodinal on steroids, I use if for all formats and B&W films.

    Ian

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