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  1. #1

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    Fuji Provia 100 in Pyrocat HD

    So I just screwed up and somehow developed one roll of acros along with one roll of provia in pyrocat hd. Yes I know provia is color slide film, but I didn't know I put it in there, they have a similar package. The images came out though there's a very strong fog or stain. I fixed in TF-5, I think the negs should even be scannable or printable, but will they stay fixed after normal fix in tf-5 plus normal archival washing?

    I'll try and get some scans up when they dry!

  2. #2
    Klainmeister's Avatar
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    WTF? Please post!
    K.S. Klain

  3. #3

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    Color film will develop as B&W negs in B&W chemistry. There's an entire Flickr group dedicated to the process: http://www.flickr.com/groups/c41inbw/

    Check out, e.g., this discussion topic: http://www.flickr.com/groups/c41inbw...7624951870711/

  4. #4
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    Fuji Provia 100 in Pyrocat HD

    Yes but provia is slide (E6) film not C41. Be interested in result too.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMBooth View Post
    Yes but provia is slide (E6) film not C41. Be interested in result too.

    So is Velvia, which is the topic of the discussion thread I linked to. Despite the URL link, that Flickr group deals with both C41 and E6 developed in B&W chemistry.

  6. #6

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    I seem to recall someone making the same mistake with Velvia and the posted result looks really good.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rawhead View Post
    So is Velvia, which is the topic of the discussion thread I linked to. Despite the URL link, that Flickr group deals with both C41 and E6 developed in B&W chemistry.
    Yes, i did just only read the link, not the content.

  8. #8

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    So sorry I never posted, I guess I developed some other film and moved on. But here's how it came out. If I recall I developed for somewhere around 16 minutes with 10 seconds agitation every four minutes after one minute initial. I'll check my notes though, whatever I've been using for acros 100 with minimal agitation. I scanned it and converted to black and white, and adjusted tones very slightly. It's real dusty but I think that's because I freaked when I saw the near black film on the real and got it dirty before washing it properly (stupid, I know) Anyways I'm quite satisfied with the result. I wouldn't recommend it as a standard workflow since Provia is very expensive and the result is still quite grainy, but it worked.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9

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    You can develop color slide film as BW, but this need some additional steps for clear base.
    1) bw developer
    2) fix
    3) c41 bleach
    4) re-expose
    5) redevelop

    I found this procedure is unusable and processing expired Kodak E100D film as bw-slide. Its very easy and need less time:

    1) 1st bw developer
    2) dichromate bleach
    3) clear bath
    4) re-expose
    5) redevelop

    example of bw-slide from Kodak E100D as 200ASA



 

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