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  1. #1

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    Efke 25/50 - Usage compared to the "alternatives"

    A very nice man in Croatia sent me some of the last Efke 25/50 he could find- a brick of each. I have been using Acros and FP4+ in the studio for portraiture for a time, but every time I look in my fridge, the Efke is staring back at me. I am having a hard time deciding what I should be using it for.

    I have done a few image searches and it seems like people use it for everything, but is there a specialized use that I should be saving it for?

    I was thinking about doing a fun long exposure for a new band, but then I wonder if it would just make sense to use an ND 0.9 with Acros and save the Efke for something else. I can't save it forever and I am not interested in selling it, so I am curious if you use or have used either emulsion, what prompted you to turn to it over, say, PanF+, etc.

  2. #2
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Efke 25/50 - Usage compared to the "alternatives"

    Build a shrine.
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  3. #3
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    I never used Efke, but a lot of folks at Flickr did. And they often tell how they used it.
    Fir instance (at random):
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinzimelka/5761476004/
    or
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/brinberkeley/2641498366/
    or
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/14431664@N03/2960217117/
    or
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaletay...hy/5692947875/

    To see "all" Efke 25 or Efke 50 images, use this link, brows and ask questions:
    http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=efke%2025%2050#page=0

    You'll find the discussions in the Efke group here:
    http://www.flickr.com/groups/46638350@N00/discuss/

    Back to your original question: what to save/use it for? As I said before, I never used Efke, but when I look at all the images, my first guess would be street photography.

    But the better question might be: what kind of photography do you like - or would you like to try once? Since you probably won't be buying\getting Efke film again, I would use it only for a single (ongoing) project, to get an even style in images.
    Your own "oneshot Efke project". ;-)

    I'm not sure if I was any help, but let us know what you'll decide and will use it for. Would be nice to follow your project.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    Back to your original question: what to save/use it for? As I said before, I never used Efke, but when I look at all the images, my first guess would be street photography.

    But the better question might be: what kind of photography do you like - or would you like to try once? Since you probably won't be buying\getting Efke film again, I would use it only for a single (ongoing) project, to get an even style in images.
    Your own "oneshot Efke project". ;-)

    I'm not sure if I was any help, but let us know what you'll decide and will use it for. Would be nice to follow your project.
    Interesting idea...to do a one-off "Efke project" (or even a one-off "Ektachrome project"). I did my own little "Kodachrome project" over the last two years before processing ceased in Dec 2010, shooting about 200 films. If nothing else, I found how much better (at least technically) one's pictures become by concentrating on one film and learning all its characteristics and querks. This would probably apply even more with B&W, not only getting to know a film but also keeping to standardised development techniques, rather than always experimenting?

  5. #5
    Denis P.'s Avatar
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    I've used it all along (I'm in Croatia...) for all kinds of stuff: from 35mm for "Leica-style" street photography (gritty, large grain in Rodinal with ASA100 using rotary processing), to 120 format with a Rolleiflex and other medium format cameras (Efke R25 is great for outdoors/landscapes with yellow or orange filter, very sharp), to portraits in large format (4x5 and bigger)...

    It's a film like any other, there's no "special purpose" that it should be used for. Shoot it before it goes bad

    If you want to do a project with it, go ahead... I'd just recommend using Efke R25 (you don't say which format you got) for shots requiring high resolution - it's a nice film, once you learn to "tame" it I find it delivers nice results with Rodinal.

  6. #6

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    I really like Efke 25 for portraits; skin tones look a little different from a panchromatic film, in a way that to my eye works really well. But it's a good general-purpose film and I can't think of anything about which I'd really say "no, wrong film for the job". (Well, it's going to be tough to use any 25-speed film for shooting a basketball game or a dim stage, of course.)

    Because the grain is so fine, you can use really high-grain developers without any grain concerns. I've really liked it in Caffenol C, and I've seen some very, very good results from Efke 25 in Rodinal. I imagine it would be a winner with pretty much any acutance developer.

    -NT
    Nathan Tenny
    San Diego, CA, USA

    The lady of the house has to be a pretty swell sort of person to put up with the annoyance of a photographer.
    -The Little Technical Library, _Developing, Printing, And Enlarging_

  7. #7
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    I used KB/R14 from the mid 70's and really liked it, later the name changed form the DIN speed to the 25 asa Tingsten speed. I still have some boxes of 10x8 EFKE PL25film.

    They were unique films as they were single layer very sharp but poo hardening and the slower films weren't fully Panchromatic by moder terms particularly the 25 ISO emulsion which was close3r to 50EO in daylight.

    Mandle well these films gave exceptional quality.

    Ian

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    They were unique films as they were single layer very sharp but poo hardening


    -NT
    Nathan Tenny
    San Diego, CA, USA

    The lady of the house has to be a pretty swell sort of person to put up with the annoyance of a photographer.
    -The Little Technical Library, _Developing, Printing, And Enlarging_

  9. #9
    NedL's Avatar
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    I don't have a lot of experience with it so far, but I did buy a couple boxes of 25 and 50 for using in my old Kodak 3A. I've been working with the 50 first, it does seem to have some contrast and Adox says not to overexpose. ( I have Adox CHS 25 and 50, but I think it is the same film. ) Anyway, so far I've tried stand development in dilute HC-110 and I've also tried diafine, both compensating development. I liked the results of both .. the diafine is a bit punchier and the tones in HC-110 were smoother. Highlights were not blown out in either. I like the way it looks and am looking forward to working with it more... but now feel a little like you, that I want to use it only for special shots since I can't get any more. I'm using it one 4x5 sheet at a time.

    Have fun!

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by railwayman3 View Post
    Interesting idea...to do a one-off "Efke project" (or even a one-off "Ektachrome project"). I did my own little "Kodachrome project" over the last two years before processing ceased in Dec 2010, shooting about 200 films. If nothing else, I found how much better (at least technically) one's pictures become by concentrating on one film and learning all its characteristics and querks. This would probably apply even more with B&W, not only getting to know a film but also keeping to standardised development techniques, rather than always experimenting?
    It's a good idea - with the big exception that B&W chemistry is not disappearing the way K-14 did. Between that and the space in my freezer, I am not in a huge rush!

    Since I have never shot anything below ISO 50, I was thinking this could be a cool film for longer exposures and for use in the studio where I can kill the background and still light the subject with a monolight. I guess aside from that, it's just another slow film...

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