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  1. #1
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Help identifying chemical set for some kind of developer (ID-11 ???)

    Hi,
    Cleaning up my darkroom, I found a set of chemicals I was given some time ago and I can't identify it. It is a blank brown cardboard box (without the wrapping label) with 2 sacs in it.
    One is a small sac (paper?) with a stamp:
    MPHN 10 LTR c
    Part A o
    MQ 862

    On the other side is printed: ID-11/Microphen/Bromophen and ID-11/Perceptol and ILFORD limited

    The other sac is a much larger white plastic sac containing powder. It is stamped with:
    MPHN-10L
    CS 186
    PT - B

    Can anyone tell what this set is for and how to use/mix it?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  2. #2

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    ID-11, Microphen, Bromophen are all Ilford packaged developers.
    The "MPHN" suggests that it might be Microphen
    Info here; http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/...ilm+Developers

  3. #3
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    I never used Microphen. Is it any good?

    I'm guessing that part A is the same for all these developers and part B contains the chemicals specific for Microphen?
    The info from Ilford:
    "To prepare stock developer, dissolve the contents of part A (the smaller bag) in about three-quarters of the total solution volume (see carton) of warm water at about 40ºC/104ºF. Stir until most of the part A powder has dissolved, continue to stir while gradually adding the contents of Part B (the larger bag). Keep stirring until no more powderdissolves. (NB it is normal for a few grains of powder to remain un-dissolved.) Add cold water to make up to the final volume (see carton) and stir. Allow to cool to room temperature, nominally20ºC/68ºF, the developer is then ready to use."

    The "total solution volume" would be 10 litres in my case, I suppose. I can't check the carton since it is missing.
    I think I'll divide it into smaller batches since I don't develop that much film.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  4. #4
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    I never used Microphen. Is it any good?
    It's a good developer aimed more at speed increase than it fine grain.
    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    The "total solution volume" would be 10 litres in my case, I suppose. I can't check the carton since it is missing.
    I think I'll divide it into smaller batches since I don't develop that much film.
    Yes, 10l of Microphen can develop over hundred rolls of film. Be careful when splitting powder developers, though, as these powders sometimes separate into their components and you would get uneven batches if you just split up the mix as is. If you really don't want 10l of developer at once (quite understandable IMHO), at least make sure that the powder is thoroughly mixed before you divide it into batches, and develop a less important roll before you risk an important one.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  5. #5
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    The part A is likely the developing agent with some sulfite/other oxygen scavengers. The B will be the balance of the sulfite and the alkali.

    You may want to try to dissolve the part A in warmed polyethelene glycol (plumbing system anti freeze. The trick is to find the stuff without the red dye around here.) I have done this with makes 10L type kits if other film developer, to give me a part A of about 1.5L. The PEG keeps any oxygen that gets dissolved when dissolving in water from being oxidized by the developing agent.

    Part B goes into water, since there is no developer to oxidize. I find you need to approach 4L to keep the B from crystalizing out when the hot water aiding dissoving it cools.

    Then when you want to develop you syringe draw a proportionate amount of A out. For me, to make up 300mL of developer, full strength took 45ml of A, and 120 mL of B, and the balance of warmed distilled water to make up the full strength developer at working strength to process one 35mm film in a Paterson or stainelss steel tank.

    This type of mix for me worked well for over 4 years before I used the last of it up.
    my real name, imagine that.

  6. #6
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Hi Mike,
    To make sure I understand you correct, is this your method of work?

    To prepare a (set for 10 litres) part A and B for later use:
    1) dissolve the part A in 1.5 litres warmed polyethelene glycol (pure, or do you add watter also?) - and store this mix.
    2) dissolve the part B in 4.0 litres - and store this mix.

    To develop one film in stock solution:
    3) take 45 ml of A and 120 mL of B and enough water to add up to 300 ml solution.
    (This way I can develop 33 films with it.)

    Why do you develop in stock solution and not in 1:1 solution?
    And what type of film did you use it for? Also Ilford FP4+?

    Thanks,
    Bert
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras



 

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