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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Power
    I realise that this is a newbie question, but I am a newbie, and I have nobody but all of you out there on APUG to help me...
    We are here to help you any time!

    I am somewhat a newbie too, and I ask newbie questions, too. But with Rodinal I feel I have something to give, and hope that people can use it.

    The Church of Rodinal is always open, and the priests are ready to help you develop into a state of pure graininess.

  2. #22

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    Now you really got me dizzy. All that gamma and CI talk.
    Sticking to dev times and film size. 120 film needs to be developed more than 135, right ?. Is it really that significant ? In the start I had some problems with my devtimes (FP4+) somehow my MF negs printed very easy while my 135 negs still where more difficult. Ok I shoot a wider range of subjects with different contrast on 135 film so thats a part of the problem but does the filmsize matter that much. I think I have my times nailed down about right for my condenser enlarger and my way of printing but maybe it could still be improved.
    Condenser vs Diffused light. It's better to stick to one type when youre a beginner, right ?
    It still seem like the (my) EI setting should be a bit lower than the ISO recomended by ILFORD (and FUJI). But that seems normal when reading through your posts ? I feel some of my negs lack detail in the shadows.
    Now after six month with B&W I might be ready to do some testing of my personal filmspeed and dev times and .... so.......
    I learned something today
    Regards Søren

  3. #23
    titrisol's Avatar
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    I think you are underfixing... how long do you fix?
    Have you ever tried increasing fix times?

    Quote Originally Posted by Max Power
    I realise that this is a newbie question, but I am a newbie, and I have nobody but all of you out there on APUG to help me...

    Why I wonder if I'm overdeveloping is the simple fact that the surrounding frame of my negatives (in 35mm) is always a darkish grey; not black, not light grey, but a solid darkish grey. Without sounding paranoid, have I perhaps been overdeveloping my negatives?

    Thanks, again
    Kent
    Mama took my APX away.....

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Soeren

    Now you really got me dizzy. All that gamma and CI talk.
    Sticking to dev times and film size. 120 film needs to be developed more than 135, right ?. Is it really that significant ? In the start I had some problems with my devtimes (FP4+) somehow my MF negs printed very easy while my 135 negs still where more difficult. Ok I shoot a wider range of subjects with different contrast on 135 film so thats a part of the problem but does the filmsize matter that much. I think I have my times nailed down about right for my condenser enlarger and my way of printing but maybe it could still be improved.
    Condenser vs Diffused light. It's better to stick to one type when youre a beginner, right ?
    It still seem like the (my) EI setting should be a bit lower than the ISO recomended by ILFORD (and FUJI). But that seems normal when reading through your posts ? I feel some of my negs lack detail in the shadows.
    Now after six month with B&W I might be ready to do some testing of my personal filmspeed and dev times and .... so.......
    I learned something today
    Regards Søren
    Personally...I don't think film size matters very much if we are talking about development times for 135 and 120 B&W film.

    As a beginner, wherever possible, try to stick to one type of enlarger. I think a condenser (just my opinion) enlarger works best for 135 and 120 film. I'm sure some folks will say otherwise.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by titrisol
    I think you are underfixing... how long do you fix?
    Have you ever tried increasing fix times?
    I fix for 5 mins using Ilford Rapid fix at 1+4 and 20C. If memory serves, Ilford recommends 2-5 mins.

    I've never thought of increasing fix times, what would you suggest?

    Thanks again,
    Kent
    Max Power, he's the man who's name you'd love to touch! But you mustn't touch! His name sounds good in your ear, but when you say it, you mustn't fear! 'Cause his name can be said by anyone!

  6. #26
    titrisol's Avatar
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    I haven;t used Deltas in a while, but IIRC the base color was mid-gray but clear to the eye.

    I suggest next time you develop, take a piece of the leader (you are going to trash those anyway) and srop it in the fixer. See how long it takes for it to become clear and use double that time as a minumum.
    I generally use 3-4 times that much
    Mama took my APX away.....

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Soeren

    Now you really got me dizzy. All that gamma and CI talk.
    Sticking to dev times and film size. 120 film needs to be developed more than 135, right ?. Is it really that significant ? In the start I had some problems with my devtimes (FP4+) somehow my MF negs printed very easy while my 135 negs still where more difficult. Ok I shoot a wider range of subjects with different contrast on 135 film so thats a part of the problem but does the filmsize matter that much. I think I have my times nailed down about right for my condenser enlarger and my way of printing but maybe it could still be improved.
    Condenser vs Diffused light. It's better to stick to one type when youre a beginner, right ?
    It still seem like the (my) EI setting should be a bit lower than the ISO recomended by ILFORD (and FUJI). But that seems normal when reading through your posts ? I feel some of my negs lack detail in the shadows.
    Now after six month with B&W I might be ready to do some testing of my personal filmspeed and dev times and .... so.......
    I learned something today
    Regards Søren

    I highly recommend that you conduct testing for film speed and development times as soon as possible. If you use several different cameras, same format or different formats, there is a good chance that you will rate film speed differently for each camera, and in the case of MF and LF each lens and shutter may test differently. If you have not already read Ansal Adams The Negative and The Print find and read both books, take a workshop. Although I do not use the Zone system (mostly by temperment) one of the best weeks I spent was learning the zone system from Minor White in the 60s.

    Regards

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchwinnParamount
    Doesn't that mean you are over-exposing and under-developing the film? It will work of course, but does that negatively (ouch ) affect the grain in the negative?
    --------------------------------------------------------------
    I am not overexposing as I arrived at my film rating via exposing for Zone I = 0.1 above (fb+f) - although I prefer 0.15 myself. I arrives at the 6 minutes (at 70F) via Zone VIII = 1.35
    Jack Rosa

  9. #29

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    SchwinnParamount,
    I second what Jack said. A good book for beginners is The Zone VI Workshop by Fred Picker.

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Howell
    I highly recommend that you conduct testing for film speed and development times as soon as possible. If you use several different cameras, same format or different formats, there is a good chance that you will rate film speed differently for each camera, and in the case of MF and LF each lens and shutter may test differently. If you have not already read Ansal Adams The Negative and The Print find and read both books, take a workshop. Although I do not use the Zone system (mostly by temperment) one of the best weeks I spent was learning the zone system from Minor White in the 60s.

    Regards
    I suppose you are mostly refering to different lightmeters
    ((and meteringpaterns)) ?. Ok the shutterspeed may vary from the all Electronic F90X to the all mecanical Yashica mat 124G through FE, QL17 and Holga
    Rereading the negative might be beneficial as you suggests.
    Testing HMM quick n dirty filmspeedanddevelopmenttest ? Do I need to do more than determin when I get details in the shadows (speed) and then when the highlights blows (dev) ? that should be simple enough. I suppose Spotmetering or incident metering is most usefull because of some AIS lenses in the bag.
    Ups, I think I'm threadjacking sorry.
    Regards Søren

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