Switch to English Language Passer en langue franšaise Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,546   Posts: 1,572,978   Online: 974
      
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 31 to 33 of 33
  1. #31
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Ipswich, Massachusetts, USA
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    4,520
    Images
    26
    Oh -- for crying out loud....

    Enough. Will you just DO it... and see what happens?

    Who knows .. you might just stumble over something you really like.
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  2. #32

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Phoeinx Arizona
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,343
    Quote Originally Posted by Soeren
    I suppose you are mostly refering to different lightmeters
    ((and meteringpaterns)) ?. Ok the shutterspeed may vary from the all Electronic F90X to the all mecanical Yashica mat 124G through FE, QL17 and Holga
    Rereading the negative might be beneficial as you suggests.
    Testing HMM quick n dirty filmspeedanddevelopmenttest ? Do I need to do more than determin when I get details in the shadows (speed) and then when the highlights blows (dev) ? that should be simple enough. I suppose Spotmetering or incident metering is most usefull because of some AIS lenses in the bag.
    Ups, I think I'm threadjacking sorry.
    Regards S°ren
    Read either Pickerings or Adams both authors give detailed instructions on how to test for film speed. I don't have the title at my finger tips but there is a very good text on 35 mm and the Zone system. But if follow the train of thought all the way though testing of film speed to print time and developers you will have a much better understanding of the interplay of the negative and the print. The final result is a tool that allows you to previsualize or take creative control so you can determine how you want the final print to look.

    It seems like a lot of work, but it will save you money and time. My training is in photojounanalism and I rarely think in terms of zone, I',m looking for a moment in time that captures an event and I work often by intuition, but by testing my film and developer combinations as well as my paper and paper developer in advance 90% of the time I can get a working print without needing a test strip or using an enlarging meter. (Working print not the presentation print).

    I suggest starting with the camera/lightmeter that you use most often, pick the film/ developer and paper/developer you use most often. Once you find the best film speed developer combinations that give you the print quality you are looking for save that negative and print as use it as reference. If you don't have access to a density you can still do the testing by inpection. Then test your other cameras and films so you have a choice of formats and speeds, then developers, one size does not fit all and you will different tools.

  3. #33
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    14,503
    Images
    299
    This thread is very amusing to me. Just start using the Rodinal at the manufacturer's recommendations, and adjust you development times from there until you have good normal development. Then start playing with film speed and contraction and expansion. Just take the plunge, it'll be fun!

    Ya know, you can really learn from mistakes too...

    Enjoy Rodinal, it's a great developer if you like sharp negatives and don't mind the grain.

    - Thomas
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  Ś   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin