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  1. #21
    yurisrey's Avatar
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    As long as they are washed well (ideally no trace of fixer left) you're good to go. I'm going to continue doing this with scraps as well, I still have the Valca roll and countless feet of 16mm film that "spaghetti-ed" in my Canon Scopic- a pinhole camera is now in the making. While not an ideal stock, I like the whole recycling aspect of doing this. Some craft-makers make beautiful jewelry from stay-tabs from aluminum cans, no doubt the same can apply for a photographer using recycled scraps of film/paper to make a unique photograph.
    "The real work was thinking, just thinking." - Charles Chaplin

  2. #22
    Herzeleid's Avatar
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    I can't seem to find the formula for copper chloride bleach. what is the formula you used for this process?

  3. #23
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    I used Photographers' Formulary Cupric Chloride (from B&H here in New York) I remember a few years ago trying the diy method, it was 100g/100g copper sulphate/sodium chloride (pure) in 1 L h20, leaving it overnight and filtering it, it worked quite well.
    "The real work was thinking, just thinking." - Charles Chaplin

  4. #24
    Herzeleid's Avatar
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    Thanks, I happen to have copper (II) chloride. I will try that in similar amounts.

  5. #25

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    Would it be at all safe to assume that the bleached film would be orthochromatic? If I take exposed imagesetter film that was red sensitive (open only under green safelight), and I develop it then bleach under a red safelight for re-use? It would be fun to cut a piece to use as 120 roll film, but it would be hard to bleach, wash and dry in total darkness.

  6. #26
    AgX
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    -) a red-only sensitized film will not turn into green sensitized (orthochromatic) after bleaching

    -) wether any spectral sensitization will survive the treatment anyway depends on the sensitization

  7. #27
    Herzeleid's Avatar
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    I tested a roll film using copper bleach in order to find if the silver halide in the emulsion is turned into silver chloride entirely.

    I used an expired b&w Orwo film for testing.

    +I fogged the film (it was rolled on to a reel for years).
    +I developed it in Rodinal 1+50 for 1 hour (May be I should have used another developer)
    +I prepared 150gr of Copper Chloride in 1lt of water
    +Bleached the film for 20 mins.

    Rinsed it, dried it inside the dev tank.

    The film definitely has some silver chloride in the emulsion, I have tested using a UV box and printed some 21 step wedge for 15mins.
    The image is visible but it goes quite light (looks underexposed) after fixing. I tried rapid fixer and %5 sodium thiosulfate (added sodium carbonate) the results are the same.
    The image gets lighter in the fixer but it is still there. May be longer exposure might help. Or increasing the chloride ratio might help.

    The film is still developed in the rodinal so I assume the film has both AgCl and AgBr in the emulsion. So silver halide in the film is not entirely turned to silver chloride.

    It is certain that the film has increased sensitivity to UV spectrum after copper bleach, so it is wiser to use UV filter to avoid haze and loss of contrast.

    May be I shall try this with another developer, or try increasing the amount of copper chloride to entirely convert silver halide to silver chloride.

  8. #28
    yurisrey's Avatar
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    Herzeleid: I think your bleach is doing it job. Printing-out might be tough due to the nature of film versus printing out paper [silver content], although I could be wrong. the method I use with a lot of success with (35mm Valca 3ASA Ortho film) is using a high strength developer like dektol or HC110 +soda until black|rinse|bleach 10-15 min|rinse +3 min|dry. Then instead of printing it out I use it in camera and then develop 2-3.5 min in same developer|rinse-stop|then fix as usual. Exposure time is about 1.5 min f/16 sunny day w/ a fast lens its under 10 seconds. As far as the UV filter goes I have to run some more tests. Although, I made a simple contact slide by placing a neg over the film and then contact printing it for two minutes w/ 40w tungsten at 30 centimeters away worked like a charm.
    "The real work was thinking, just thinking." - Charles Chaplin

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by yurisrey View Post
    Herzeleid: I think your bleach is doing it job. Printing-out might be tough due to the nature of film versus printing out paper [silver content], although I could be wrong.
    You might be right I haven't tested unbleached film for printing out or how much it does print out in comparison to CuCl2 bleached film. A comparison would give good idea of the silver chloride content. I also might have to acidify the bleach formula. I have found copper sulfate mixed sodium chloride and added acids in some of the formula.

    Quote Originally Posted by yurisrey View Post
    the method I use with a lot of success with (35mm Valca 3ASA Ortho film) is using a high strength developer like dektol or HC110 +soda until black|rinse|bleach 10-15 min|rinse +3 min|dry. Then instead of printing it out I use it in camera and then develop 2-3.5 min in same developer|rinse-stop|then fix as usual. Exposure time is about 1.5 min f/16 sunny day w/ a fast lens its under 10 seconds. As far as the UV filter goes I have to run some more tests. Although, I made a simple contact slide by placing a neg over the film and then contact printing it for two minutes w/ 40w tungsten at 30 centimeters away worked like a charm.
    I will try it as regular film in camera sometime too. I am more interested in this bleached films special look rather than using fogged old films. But I have stash of orwo films it might be good to know this method anyway.

  10. #30

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    I'd been wondering about this.

    I have a couple boxes of old 4x5 and 3a sized glass plates. I mean so old that the concept of the expiration date hadn't been invented yet, so I have no idea how old they are, except that they're likely pre-war, and you can pick which war. I tried exposing one by strips and found the whole thing was fogged black, so they've been sitting on the shelf waiting for me to figure out what else I could do with them. I'd been wondering if there was some way to "de-expose" them such that I could use them in a camera; everyone I asked assured me it couldn't be done, but this looks like it might work.

    Sure they'll be slow, but they weren't all that fast to begin with...

    Any suggestions specifically for these?

    edit: only developer I have in the house is HC-110 at the moment (not counting the various ingredients of caffenol-C). Would HC-110 work for this purpose? I would have to go to B&H to pick up the bleach in any case, should I get some other developer?

    edit: would this be safe under a ruby safelight? The plates were orthochromatic to begin with, and would presumably now be monochromatic, but it couldn't hurt to check. I'm gonna be stuck in the darkroom until they dry anyhow, I'd rather not be in total darkness.
    Last edited by Shalom; 05-08-2013 at 03:24 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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