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  1. #11
    pstake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by horacekenneth View Post
    I use stand/semi-stand development because I can do other things while it develops, I like the workflow.

    I use Rodinal 1+125 for 1.5 hrs to do a two-stop push. After the first hour I swirl it real gently for fifteen seconds.

    I haven't done any real testing with it myself, my technique comes from here.
    You push Tri-X to 1600 and develop for only 1.5 hours?


    I arrived at 2:45 after starting at 2:15 and finding that to be not enough development.

    Wondering what other variables are different. I'm developing at 20 degrees C ... using tap water. 1: 100 ratio.

    Also, results I've seen from Diafine with Tri-X at 1600 are outstanding. Great shadow detail.

  2. #12
    Brian C. Miller's Avatar
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    I've used Tri-X at 1600 with Xtol 1:2 and 1:3. I think the 1:3 time was with normal agitation (swirl or inverse) for something like 20-25 minutes, but I don't have my notes handy. The result was quite good, but pushing it to 3200 resulted in the shadows dropping off like a rock (toe values like Peg-Leg Pete). I have not tried it with Diafine. (yet)

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by pstake View Post
    You push Tri-X to 1600 and develop for only 1.5 hours?


    I arrived at 2:45 after starting at 2:15 and finding that to be not enough development.

    Wondering what other variables are different. I'm developing at 20 degrees C ... using tap water. 1: 100 ratio.

    Also, results I've seen from Diafine with Tri-X at 1600 are outstanding. Great shadow detail.

    You've already done more testing than I have, so there's that. I've gotten good results following the methods in the link I included though. He does 2 hrs for a 4 stop push. I guesstimated 1.5 for 1600 and got good results. One variable I see is that he recommends gently swirling the developer every 1/2 hour for fifteen seconds.

  4. #14
    pstake's Avatar
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    Ahhh ... I don't do nothin! Just mix, pour and let it sit! Sans semi, so to speak.

    But! ... sometimes I do a little less or a little more depending on the light, etcetera.

    All of that said, I'm not convinced i've reached the perfect recipe just yet ... it's just been working well enough that I don't have to work too hard in the darkroom to get good prints.

    But an hour difference for the same rating makes me wonder what I might be doing wrong —or could be doing better —and in less time!

    One thing is: I do not soak the film before developing, which is what that recipe you linked, called for.

    This is just more evidence of the fact that stand development is something that has to be honed by each individual to his/her taste and preference. All of this is just a starting point.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by pstake View Post
    Ahhh ... I don't do nothin! Just mix, pour and let it sit! Sans semi, so to speak.

    But! ... sometimes I do a little less or a little more depending on the light, etcetera.

    All of that said, I'm not convinced i've reached the perfect recipe just yet ... it's just been working well enough that I don't have to work too hard in the darkroom to get good prints.

    But an hour difference for the same rating makes me wonder what I might be doing wrong —or could be doing better —and in less time!

    One thing is: I do not soak the film before developing, which is what that recipe you linked, called for.

    This is just more evidence of the fact that stand development is something that has to be honed by each individual to his/her taste and preference. All of this is just a starting point.
    That makes sense - the part about each for themselves. The wide variety of times I see for stand development I start to wonder what really is going on inside that developing tank.

  6. #16
    Colin Corneau's Avatar
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    Tri-X is a film well suited to pushing, and EI-1600 is very feasible.

    Despite how great stand is, I never saw Rodinal as well-suited to pushing. A developer will make all the difference in success or not in pushing -- Microphen is a good choice for pushing but I've had great luck and results with DD-X...also well made for pushing.

    Good luck!
    "Never criticize someone until you've walked a mile in their shoes. That way, you're a mile away and you've got their shoes."

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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by horacekenneth View Post
    That makes sense - the part about each for themselves. The wide variety of times I see for stand development I start to wonder what really is going on inside that developing tank.
    Not done any myself but from what I understand is the developer pretty much exhausts after a certain point so an additional hour might not yeald you much.

  8. #18
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    @ Roger agree that works.

    HC-110 and Diafine were my go-to developers at the time..

    --this stand development. Why isn't "bromide burn/streaking" an issue?
    I used to have bromide burn issues with 4x5 when I didn't agitate enough.

    I always found a nice long rest- 2 minutes in water after dumping the developer rather than a stop softened the contrast.
    I know some here have said baloney to it... in the end it doesn't hurt. My pushed tri-x was admired by several back in the newsroom days.

  9. #19
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    I like using DDX for pushing Trix to 1600.

  10. #20
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    Untitled by Michael_Sergio_Barnes, on Flickr

    I went with Xtol 1+3, as per advice from someone at my photography store but I do not think that some of the other combinations that you guys use is necessarily less suitable. They print pretty well too (this is a scan but prints look no worse IMO).

    Thanks!
    Last edited by msbarnes; 04-11-2013 at 02:30 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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