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  1. #1

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    Formula for Diafine

    Formula for Diafine
    I was looking on line for the price of Diafine, but 1st I saw it for 1 qt of Accufine. I damn near fell out of my chair. Then I saw the price for 1qt of Diafine of ~$35 & I did fall out of my chair.
    Next I picked up my copy of 'Film Developing Cookbook' looking for Diafine. So far as I can tell there were no Ethol or what the other company’s name is, formulas nor any mention of them nor any of their products.
    Am I mistaken? Are they buried in there some where? Maybe if I looked in the 'Darkroom Cookbook', I'd find something. I doubt that I could save any $ by mixing my own, but, boy $35 got me to thinking. I shot a 35mm roll of Fuji B&W 1600 by accident instead of Fuji Color neg 1600. I would feel a lot safer w/ Diafine. it's near foolproof. If I lived in the City (San Francisco) I might be able to find a custom lab to soup it. But I don't want to make the drive.
    Come to think of it, 140 miles round trip @ $.50 per mile makes it $70 dollars. Makes the $35 for Diafine not seem so bad.
    BTW do Troop & Anchell have something against Ethol & their Ilk of developers?
    Thanks. Jay Drew

  2. #2
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Diafine is expensive, but it lasts almost FOREVER. In terms of per-film cost, it's still probably one of the least expensive developers around. And the gallon usually doesn't cost more than maybe 1/3 more than a quart.

  3. #3
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    Formula for Diafine

    Can someone educate me, why is it fool proof?

    What kinds of tones does it have? Is it closer to Rodinal or HC-110 in sharpness vs grain etc?

    Nearly forever is Rodinal... So there's more than one nearly forever? Lol


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  4. #4
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Can someone educate me, why is it fool proof?

    What kinds of tones does it have? Is it closer to Rodinal or HC-110 in sharpness vs grain etc?

    Nearly forever is Rodinal... So there's more than one nearly forever? Lol


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    There is very little need to control temperature, and past a certain point an increase in time makes little difference in development.

    One re-uses Diafine over and over - if you don't contaminate it, it will last for a very long time and will develop a lot of film.

    With some films, it gives a real speed increase - e.g. old Tri-X at EI 1250 and you got good shadow detail. I haven't used it in years, so I don't know what EI people are getting with current Tri-X.

    It accomplishes its speed increase by, inter alia, lowering contrast. So one needs to try it to determine whether it will be suitable for one's needs.

    It might do a good job with negatives designed to be scanned - you should ask someone who uses it for that purpose.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  5. #5
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    I shot "the old Tri-X" at 1600 with good results. With current Tri-X I find it depends (I find the same thing with TMY to a greater extent) very much on the light. In daylight, say an overcast day, I can still use 1600 and get great results. But in tungsten light 1600 is a bit thin and I prefer 1000. 1250 is a good compromise.

    If I had to standardize on only one developer it would be Diafine. One of my favorite combos used to be Plus-X at 400-500 in Diafine. I preferred the results to Tri-X at box speed in D76. Current medium speed films don't seem to do as well, by which I mean they don't get the same speed increase though they work fine. FP4+ is more like 200.

    I use Diafine now mainly for two films: Tri-X when I want 1000-1250 but don't need Delta 3200 speed, and for Pan F+. It's a great developer for Pan F+ in my experience, both taming some of the contrast by moderating the highlights and giving a small but useful speed increase. I shoot this combo at EI 64. Though that's only 1/3 stop over box speed, most people using other developers seem to shoot it at 32-40 so it's more like 2/3s to 1 stop.

    I've posted this before, but I gave my wife's parents a mounted and framed print of roughly 15" square of this photo for Christmas. (I shot this at the beach house they rented for a month in 2011, while we were staying with them.) They put it over the mantle and wrote a thank you card saying how much they like it. The print I made for them is somewhat darker than this rendering. Pan F+ in Diafine, EI 64:


    Apalachicola Beach 1 by Roger Cole, on Flickr

  6. #6

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    The formulas for commercial developers are usually closely guarded secrets, you are not going to see them published. What you can find are formulas that claim to produce the same results as a particular commercial one. I posted three formulss for Diafine, check the archives.
    Last edited by Gerald C Koch; 04-12-2013 at 09:55 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  7. #7
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Formula for Diafine

    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    There is very little need to control temperature, and past a certain point an increase in time makes little difference in development.

    One re-uses Diafine over and over - if you don't contaminate it, it will last for a very long time and will develop a lot of film.

    With some films, it gives a real speed increase - e.g. old Tri-X at EI 1250 and you got good shadow detail. I haven't used it in years, so I don't know what EI people are getting with current Tri-X.

    It accomplishes its speed increase by, inter alia, lowering contrast. So one needs to try it to determine whether it will be suitable for one's needs.

    It might do a good job with negatives designed to be scanned - you should ask someone who uses it for that purpose.
    Thanks, interesting... Well when I'm done testing D76 and played with my can of polydol, maybe I'll give diafine a chance.


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  8. #8

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    That's true & I'll look for a gal. size.
    Thanks Rodger

  9. #9
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    It's one of those "I'll get around to it some day, hopefully" things, but here is a good article, I think: http://www.blackandwhitefineart.net/2011/01/diafine/
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  10. #10
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Formula for Diafine

    Quote Originally Posted by J Drew View Post
    That's true & I'll look for a gal. size.
    Thanks Rodger
    Diafine is something that, while I dont use it that much now, I would really really miss if it were to go away and it comes in airtight sealed aluminum cans so it should last a very long time. I just got another gallon to set aside along with my order from Freestyle (received today) and the box has changed. Instead of the old coated box with printing it came in rough cardboard with a printed label stuck on. Inside cans are same as always so no impact to the product itself that I can see.

    I now have my working gallon and two unmixed. Considering I used to get about 50-70 rolls through a quart I ought to be set for a while for Diafine.

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