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  1. #11

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    Thank you both for the help, I truly appreciate it!

  2. #12

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    By the way it goes without saying extending the time and agitating continuously will increase contrast with WD2D+ as well, and I found it very easy to get a high density range - but you'll need to make prints to test. It is difficult to judge the density of Pyro negatives by eye because you're really only seeing the silver density, and the stain adds significant printing density.

  3. #13

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    This is the Fomapan 100 film (it will probably say made in Czech republic on the box). The effective EI in D76 is somewhere around 50, so if you want to give 'more exposure' try exposing as EI25.

    The film datasheet gives a time of seven minutes in D76 stock, hence you may need far more exposure and development than you have mentioned. In turn, that may mean an exposure time over half a second and with this film reciprocity failure becomes noticeable quite soon. From the data sheet - at 1s extend by one stop, at 10s by three stops, at 100s by four stops.

    I'd suggest sticking to an ordinary developer, like D76, to get a baseline for comparisons before branching out to look for improvements.

  4. #14

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    I spent a few hours reading up on film curves and how to decipher them, it makes sense! Sort of! I was always aware of reciprocity failure but had NO IDEA that this film needs it's exposure to be corrected as much as it does. Thank you again.

  5. #15
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip P. Dimor View Post
    I spent a few hours reading up on film curves and how to decipher them, it makes sense! Sort of! I was always aware of reciprocity failure but had NO IDEA that this film needs it's exposure to be corrected as much as it does. Thank you again.
    I didn't even think about that. Reciprocity failure is pretty bad with this film.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  6. #16

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    For what its worth, I shoot the 400 ISO version of this film at 160 and have to dilute Xtol to 1:2 at 10:30 and 68 deg in my JOBO to get decent negatives, so I have felt your pain.

  7. #17
    Andre Noble's Avatar
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    Phillip, I have used Wimberly WD2D+ very succesfully using Jobo expert drums with Ilford FP4+.

    A) Rate all B&W film at half box speed, per WD2D+'s designer, John Wimberly.
    B) Use a lot of volume of the developer ( at 1:1:100 or is it 1:1:50??) its very dilute. If you are running 6 or 10 4x5 sheets through there, the drums minimum volume will not have enough of the active developer in it.
    C) Fresh developer at half time: Halfway through your development time, empty the developer, and introduce new, freshly mixed W2D2+ developer. This will eliminate aerial fogging and make negatives super beautiful: properly dense, with no base fog.
    Andre Noble, Beverly Hills California http://andrenoble.com/

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