Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,445   Posts: 1,569,928   Online: 1062
      
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    52

    advice asked: Svema fn-64 in HC-110 (or old Kodak T-max)

    Well I foolishly thought that I'd just look this up on the web and go, but oddly haven't had much luck in English or Russian!

    I've got two rolls (thus little latitude for experimentation) of 120 Svema fn-64 (Ukrainian) that I must've bought there ca. 1999-2001. I think it was stored room temperature for some years, frozen some others - it sort of got out of my possession for a while, then came back...

    It's marked develop time 8 mins in soviet standard developer (#2). Expiry 2002.

    So if this were something equivalent like Ilford or Kodak with similar speed, age and history, I'd probably shoot at a half or full stop less and process normally or a little longer.

    Found nothing on the massive developing chart for HC-110 (will submit if I have any luck). I did see some references to D-76 and others, and will develop based on those as compared to other D-76 vs. HC-110

    I'm out of Ilford so figured I'd shoot one of these. Industrial landscapes. Ideally I'd get something decently printable that I can put into the same set of photos as my 'good' film (in-date and recent Ilfords).

    Anyway, all I've got available handily is HC-110 (and I seem to have an ~10-year old unopened bottle of T-max developer), so asking advice if anyone has any on this... To tell the truth, I'm not so knowledgeable on the differences between developers as I am also a cheapskate and use the HC-110 as supplied in the darkroom I work in (university) at various dilutions.

    If there's a compelling reason to use a specific developer instead of these, let me know that too - I'd hate to 'waste' this old film!
    ................................................

    Robert J. Liebermann
    photos: http://rjl.us/photo
    Eureka Alaska/Vermillion Michigan USA

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Southern USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,054
    Film manufacturers usually give a developing time for D-76 or an equivalent like ID-11. That's probably your best bet.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    52
    Right - as mentioned originally, the film is recommended 8 mins in the standard Soviet developer #2, and only that developer. Since I don't have any of that, I'm wondering about ideas in HC-110, which I do have.

    But since I'm planning to shoot this in a half an hour and develop after, I've decided to shoot at 32 and develop 6' as per here:
    http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru.../t-124549.html
    ,the only mention of HC-110 and Свема Фн-64 and/of Svema fn 64 I was able to dig out of the web in any language...

    If anybody's interested I can report results. If I screw up, I have one more roll to try...
    ................................................

    Robert J. Liebermann
    photos: http://rjl.us/photo
    Eureka Alaska/Vermillion Michigan USA

  4. #4
    Fixcinater's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    San Diego, CA, USA
    Shooter
    127 Format
    Posts
    1,019
    Images
    24
    I'm interested in seeing the results, please do post them and your impressions.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    52
    Will try to scan before long.


    Caveat of 'quality control' is that many exposures were 15-30" and so was sort of flying double-blind and guessing at reciprocity as well...

    Some fungus spots here and there visible in lighter areas (backing paper had a musky smell but no visible hyphae...). Cursed non-sealed film wrapping - read someone compare it to a roll of life-savers candy, which is apt. Probably that candy comes now in some mylar wrapper itself, but in the 1970s...

    So, next (last/other) roll I'll shoot at 64, develop 5 or 6', and shoot all 'texture' shots (i.e., no sky of large black or white areas, to 'hide' any fungus spots). Will try to avoid long exposures to minimize reciprocity effect, maybe, possibly, if I feel like it...
    ................................................

    Robert J. Liebermann
    photos: http://rjl.us/photo
    Eureka Alaska/Vermillion Michigan USA



 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin