Developed my first roll... Poor Paterson Reel loading technique ...
So I've been practicing loading a Paterson reel for a while and could do it by feel (my practice roll was a 24 exp roll...)
So, everythings in the changing bag, crack open canister of Acros 135 - 36 start loading and notice I can't get the last piece of the roll on and it feels like I'd damage the film removing it. Finally get it right and cut the end of
Spent 15 min getting the TMAX RS down to temperature
As per Fuji's instructions 1 min agitation (What is one inversion btw? Should I let the liquid slosh all the wall over to one side or is it just, back and forth?), agitate at 3 min, 4 min, and then 5 min, before pulling off the cover and dumping it at 5:15 (can I skip the final agitation?)
Stop, Fix (How often do I agitate during the fix, the Fuji spec sheet told me to invert continuously for the first minute and that was it), Ilford Wash
Negatives look okay, on a few frames uneven edge markings and a tiny kink (ugh...)
Really dusty though (is this fixable or is this damage permanent?)
Exact methods/timing of agitation is relative. If this method worked for you, just be consistent and do the same thing for future rolls. That way, you know what to expect every time.
See posts #11 and 12 in above thread for my tips re loading film.
I don't use stop bath. Fresh running water is good enough for stopping development.
My standard practice is 30 seconds gentle rolling action at the start followed by 4 gentle rolling inversions every 60 seconds. Personal consistent practice rather than chasing the next best advice you receive is the way to go once you get a bit more experience! Don't sweat too much over "mistakes". Shoot more film!
I use 1+1 development in XTol which makes starting temperature control easier. Don't be afraid to stick the thermometer in between agitation to see what ambient or tank temperature is doing especially if you are more than 3 or 4 degrees either side of 20C. Adjust finishing time up or down a little accordingly. (I actually start at 19C if the ambient/tank temperature is higher and 21C if its cold in the darkroom.)
With fix I agitate for 30 seconds and then rest for 30 seconds for no less than 4 minutes. I shoot primarily TX400. Again, standard consistent practice for me which works.
Last edited by Tony Egan; 04-16-2013 at 01:26 AM. Click to view previous post history.
You should be able to get rid of the dust by washing again. Did you use Photo-flo for the final rinse? And if so, did you mix it properly? If you use too much, the film gets sticky. Either way, try to dry the film in a dust-free area.
One thing I do with my films is cut off the corners of the leading edge of the film. Just cut off about 1 or 2 mm, and that means a hard edge will not have to push anything out of the way in the grooves of the reel. It's easier to do this in the light. When you rewind the film in the camera, don't rewind the leader into the can; only rewind until the leader is disengaged from the take up spool. The cut off the leader, cut off your two corners, and then rewind the rest into the can. You can do the cutting in the dark, but it's a lot easier if you can see it. (You have to do it in the dark for 120 film.)
Good luck; keep trying.
A few points:
I suggest not beveling the film. It should load as easily if it is cut exactly square. Beveling may cause the film tip to slip out and scratch the next layer of film in the spiral, and it will be impossible to load further. The reel must be absolutely dry. Even a tiny drop of moisture will make everything stick, and will force you to abandon the operation. When you load a film, always load it well past the minimum. When you use the take-up action of the spool, once the entire film is on the spool, push the trailing edge a further finger length onto the spool, or as far as it will go. If you leave the film as it loaded, then once you unclick the spool to take the film out, in turning the one half of the spool it will catch the film and kink it quite badly. Another way to do it is to remove the film by flexing it enough to slip out of the groove, but you do so at own risk. I prefer unhinging the spool unless the film gets caught.
About dust: My first few films were very dusty, and I have become a lot more careful since then. Use clean water and clean chemicals for processing. Tap water is fine, but there must not be any particulate matter floating around. Check your fixer - sometimes a precipitate can form which will stick to the film. Although it can be washed off, this is time consuming and can potentially degrade the film. If there is a precipitate, decant off the clear part and use only that. For final wash, use a drop or two of wetting agent (not too much!) in distilled or purified water that has close to zero TDS. Don't use softened water - the object is to obtain a film that is dry without any drying marks due to salts or deposits. When you hang the film to dry, do not squeegee it. Very important: hang the film in a dust-free place. I use my darkroom with fans off and door closed, and myself outside. Like all animals, we are all constantly shedding dead skin cells, and these can get onto and spoil a drying film. So while the film is drying, try not to keep it company - it will do fine on its own.
An inversion is from upright to upside-down and back to upright. It is not necessary to shake the tank as if your life depends on it. Think of it as creating motion but not shock. An inversion takes me about 2.5 to 3 seconds. For most films, that means three or four inversions (= 10 seconds) per minute. For some developers that are prone to foaming (TMax Dev is a good example) the inversions must be done as gently as possible. This is to prevent foam that causes eneven development if your film is barely covered at the top, or worse, bubbles sticking to the film during development. To minimise the latter, give the tank a firm thump onto the table or shelf where you are working, after every agitation cycle (while it is upright) before you set it down again. Try not to break the tank, though. That is not recommended.
If you do not have a film retriever, I suggest getting one. It is much easier to cut the tip straight in daylight than in the dark, and it makes a big difference to the ease of loading if it is straight and not cut through the sprocket holes, for instance. This is a non-issue with 120 film, but for 35 mm needs to be considered.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I reckon this is also true of the "clip the corners vs. don't clip the corners " and "stainless reel vs. plastic reel" debates that always seem to dog development technique & equipment threads ...
Originally Posted by Tony Egan
Extra to what Dorff says above, you will encounter problems with a 36 exp film if you try to load it fresh out of the camera. This is because the camera tak-up spool puts a reverse curl in the film. Best to leave it in the cassette for a couple of days before loading into the dev tank. I dry spirals on a gentle heat (e.g. top of a radiator) before use to make sure they are bone dry.
I clipped the corners
I'm not sure if I cut enough leader off (I clipped the tongue, then clipped the corners)
The reels were brand new, straight out of the box
Still not sure why it bound it
Some smudge/smear in the center?
Can't figure out what happened here on the left
Last edited by GarageBoy; 04-16-2013 at 07:35 AM. Click to view previous post history.
all levity aside, this is excellent advice.
Originally Posted by Jonathan R
I had a few jamming problems that resolved when I noticed that I only had the jams with film that had been in a reverse-wind camera (they don't all, my XA and Ricoh 500G just wind straight for instance.)
Once I learned to let the film "relax" for a day in the cassette, I had no more problems.
I found it also depended a bit on the film type. Some bases seemed a bit more prone to holding their "reverse curl" than others (Fomapan was a particular culprit for me)
Reading these post really makes a simple process complex.