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Thread: Oriental VC

  1. #11
    kintatsu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neal View Post
    Dear kintatsu,

    I never assume the same exposure and development for two different papers. Further, subtleties in the paper base and emulsion can make one more desirable than another for a given image (although I've found I can vacillate between prints over time). Neal Wydra
    Thanks for the information. With the Foma paper I found the problem seems to be the addition of developer to the paper. The levels for the most part remain the same, but small highlights, abruptly changing to lower values go dark and blend into the surrounding area. It would seem either surface area of the highlights or the transition to lower values needs to be controlled. Keeping that in mind, I think I can get something good from it with patience and practice.


    Quote Originally Posted by Neal View Post
    Having said that, I have been happy with several prints that I've made in the last year using Oriental VC paper. I can't blame the paper for any one that I am not happy with. ;>)
    Neal Wydra
    I hope I can make some good ones with it.

    Thanks for the information

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by nworth View Post
    It is very good. It doesn't compare to the old Oriental Seagull G from the 60s and 70s, but it is still a premium paper.
    Thank you for the reply and information.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mesantacruz View Post
    From my experience, with or without filters, it is more contrasty, noticeably so. I don't know if i had a strange/old batch, but the contrast was way high.
    Thank you for the information. I'll keep that in mind when I order some and make prints.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huub View Post
    I have been using some of Oriental FB VC paper for the past few years. You'll be fine when using the Ilford filters - they work perfect.
    Compared to the Ilford paper, it needs a bit more development to get good blacks -give it 50% more time. The paper has a bit more contrast, especially in the lower tones and responds well to selenium toning, giving a more pronounced effect then the Ilford MG FB paper. And the paper has almost the same white base as the the Ilford paper.
    How much development time are we talking about here? I've noticed most FB papers get richer with extended development so it's something of a compromise between the absolute best look and patience. I generally develop Ilford MG (WT and IV) and Adox MCC 110 for 3 minutes. Sometimes I'll go 5 minutes.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    How much development time are we talking about here? I've noticed most FB papers get richer with extended development so it's something of a compromise between the absolute best look and patience. I generally develop Ilford MG (WT and IV) and Adox MCC 110 for 3 minutes. Sometimes I'll go 5 minutes.

    With Eukobrom at 1:9, the recommended dilution, for Ilford I get about 60-90 seconds for full development. With the Foma I'm getting 15-30 seconds for fully developed. The MG comes out very nice and seems to be more to my taste, while the Foma comes out almost like looking through a dark grey window. I tried the Foma at 1:18, with half the exposure and times were longer, but the highlights still looked bad.

    Given your comment, I'll have to try 1:18, with even less exposure. Thanks for the advice and tip.

  6. #16

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    If the paper is fresh and well-stored then the Foma should look pretty good. The development time "should" be about 90 seconds for the Foma resin-coated paper - if you have a featureless dark piece of paper after that time then I'd suggest both reducing the exposure and making a very very careful safelight/fogging check.
    Last edited by MartinP; 04-29-2013 at 04:52 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Fomaspeed, not Fomabrom, amended the dev time.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinP View Post
    ...I'd suggest both reducing the exposure and making a very very careful safelight/fogging check.
    Thanks for the advice. I've tried reducing the exposure, and will try to further reduce it. I hadn't thought about the safelight. I'll give it a check.

  8. #18

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    I have tried the newer Seagull paper and wasn't particularly impressed with the results. You might as well use ILFORD or Adox MCC which is an excellent variable contrast paper. Foma papers can produce good results but I've sometimes had problems with emulsion softness, but this is perhaps more of an issue with high temperature lith processing.

    Tom

  9. #19

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    I normally develop the Oriental paper in a 1:7 Neutal WA developer for 3 minutes, whereas i used 2 minutes for the Ilford and Agfa papers.

  10. #20

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    I just recently tried out the Oriental paper. I've been a loyal Ilford user for a while, but the student price on Oriental from B&H was too good not to at least try it. I'm very impressed so far. The contrast is different, but I split-grade print so after a bit of adjustment, I seem to be able to do everything that I could with the Ilford paper. I think the paper itself may actually be a bit heavier than Ilford.

    If the prices were the same, I'd probably stick with Ilford, although more out of loyalty than any significant difference in quality. As it is, I'm switching to Oriental for as long as the price hold up.

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